Some help with buying a used MG TF

Hi All, I am new here soon looking to become an MG owner. I am looking at a 1.8 (135) 2003 TF. The issue I see is that the heater on full or medium or low blast in all three settings was cycling between hot and cold air. Is this something to worry about? I think it's the thermostat because the head gasket was changed not long ago. This topic concluded that it was a thermostat problem too (http://www.the-t-bar.com/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/31268-heater-mystery-solved).

- There is no mixture in the coolant or the oil. On cold setting it kept the air cool so the seller thinks it is cycling on the hot setting to regulate the temperature inside the cabin, can this be true?
- The coolant temperature was steady and well maintained through out a 30 minute drive.
- The oil temperature was steady too but took a while to get there. It reached around 120 degC and stayed there for the rest of the drive.
- There was no leakage around the head of the engine.


I followed a buying guide here:
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_147993878399312&key=5e19687329e09ebd2a52b527fe77b775&libId=ivvh3gky01002dzb000DApfxqozu7&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.mg-rover.org%2Fmgf-mgtf-sponsored-mgfntfbitz-12%2Fhelp-my-buying-mg-tf-832585%2F&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mgf.ultimatemg.com%2Fgroup1%2Finfo%2Fmgf_buying.htm&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mg-rover.org%2F%3Fpage%3Dactive_topics&title=Help%20with%20my%20buying%20mg%20tf%20-%20MG-Rover.org%20Forums&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mgf.ultimatemg.com%2Fgroup1...mgf_buying.htm

The only bad point of this car is that there is corrosion on the subframe where it meets the body (pictures attached) so I would appreciate any opinion or advice please. For the price of the car I don't think I can fault it as the subframes are cheap to get but does anyone have an idea of how much it might cost to have a new one fitter?


Thank you.

I'm not sure about the temperature issues but, the rust would bother me. If you can see the rust then there is probably a lot more that you cannot see.
If the price is low enough to make any remedial work worth it, and you like the rest of the car, then go for it.

I've seen a lot worse rust, mine looked pretty bad but when I took it apart and brushed it down it wasn't that bad at all.
The main areas to watch out for are;
Front subframe front mount bobbins where they bolt to the front of the body.
Rear subframe longitudinal member which takes the gearbox mount, they rust through at the front where they bolt to the subframe.
Body sills underneath and at the front and back where they are closed.
The heater issue could be a missing restricter. If the car has been fitted with a PRT later on there should be a small plastic restricter added to one of the hoses to improve heater efficiency.

Cheers

Geoff.

:welcome2:
Temp could be air in the heater loop.

The temp on hot should be hot there is no cut off YOU control the temp A new sub frame from Rimmer bros is £325 this is a half price sale There are marine grade s/steel mounts for the sub frame from MG MANIA @ £44 a pair

if in doubt about the condition of a f or tf.....leave well alone and go and look at another.....theres plenty on the market....make sure your happy and know what you want.....if you want bigger calipers and discs...buy a car with them fitted....has this can cost you more than you paid for the car later......low water alarms,hardtops and glass rear screens are a bonus.....so if a car comes at the right price in good condition with these fitted your getting there.......stainless water pipes...if they are not fitted you will be at some point......i checked my cars mot history online before i purchased it.....it gave me a very good idea on how the car was kept before.......dont go for that local bargain and have to spend 3 times its value to get it how you want it.....the subframe rust doesnt look bad at first glance....a good prodding to hear that sound metal is needed......cambelt paranoia comes into effect shortly after purchase if knobody can tell you when it was replaced

Hi and welcome to the forum

Once the engine is up to temp the heater shouldn't change unless you change the dial.

As above, if you're not happy with the rust, walk away.

James