Stripping interior to fit Slickshift MGF

A wet and windy weekend so what is better than spending time in the garage

.Has anyone posted a guide ? I am really struggling.

I have finally got the instrument switch fascia off after following one of the guides here. I now need to get the centre console off to reveal the gearshift. Lots of questions emerge:-

Do I have to start with the bulkhead finisher ( T-bar) and then work forward? If so. do the side bits just pull (lever?) forward out of the nylon fixings with brute force or is it more subtle?

Have I really got to take the seats out?

I have taken out the two screws each side at the front of the centre console. The ones each side at the back are shown in the book also as a screw but they are not. It looks as if they may have has an Allen key head but, if so, the hole in the middle has been rounded out and will not turn. I am not even sure if they are metal or nylon. Any clues as how to proceed? Pull out with brute force? Drill them out and replace ?

I am sure many more problems will emerge but this would get me started.

Thanks in advance

My activities planned for today was cancelled so I decided to pick up my spanners again.

After re-reading the workshop manual, the T bar was removed after some judicious levering withe a screwdriver. After that, all was (relatively ) easy. What I thought was the fixings at the back of the centre console turned out to be rivets holding plates which should be screwed into the tunnel. It had obviously been dismantled before as these screws were missing ( as were several other screws and clips) so I did not have to remove the seats.

I have now removed the old gearshift and started installing the Slickshift. Unfortunately I found the slot for one of the cable to slide into was just a fraction too small and I could not push it right home and install the retaining plate. It is probably only ten minutes with a file, but I have decided that it is enough for today.

I have also taken off the cable clips and the rose joints off the bellcrank at the gearbox end.

Do I need to remove the bracket which holds the lower cable to be able to remove the roll-pin and put the new bell crank on? It is extremely hard to shift and I have soaked it in Plusgas for another attempt. Incidentally why is it necessary to change the bellcrank and cable connectors at all?

Perhaps the Mike Satur ones are better than the original Rover ones.

I should have taken some photos and posted my own guide!

davidej wrote: ….I should have taken some photos and posted my own guide!

Agreed, or just do a blog.

davidej wrote:
I have also taken off the cable clips and the rose joints off the bellcrank at the gearbox end.

Do I need to remove the bracket which holds the lower cable to be able to remove the roll-pin and put the new bell crank on? It is extremely hard to shift and I have soaked it in Plusgas for another attempt. Incidentally why is it necessary to change the bellcrank and cable connectors at all?

Perhaps the Mike Satur ones are better than the original Rover ones.

I should have taken some photos and posted my own guide!

The Satur bellcrank assembly is much better than the original! Actually just changing the bell crank assembly without the slick shift is a cheaper way of improving the gear change.

Also the original ball/rose joints wear and pop off or the rubber disintegrates leaving you with a box of neutrals.
Certainly better to take off the the bracket to remove the roll pin.:yesnod: