Carpet Fixings
Hi All For all the years I have owned an mgtf the thing that really annoyed me is the fact that the cabin carpet is always pulling away from the door rubbers. Look a right mess.
So I decided to do something about it. Drilled three holes horizontally along the sill and one on the door curviture, and fitted some fixing plastic things. I was a little to enthusiastic on one of the retaining things and cracked the top. As you can see. Did have another replacement.
Works! I will see for how long.
So I decided to do something about it. Drilled three holes horizontally along the sill and one on the door curviture, and fitted some fixing plastic things. I was a little to enthusiastic on one of the retaining things and cracked the top. As you can see. Did have another replacement.
Works! I will see for how long.
Last Edit:4 years 6 months ago
by Fisher
Last edit: 4 years 6 months ago by cairnsys. Reason: to load images. Inserted images in text
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In my MG this is deliberately loose, to enable me to check if the carpet underside is damp, due to possible leaking. But I admit, that is from an esthetical point of view not a great solution.
by tnjk
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My TF had damp carpets and sodden insulation, and the same problem of the carpet peeling back around the sills.
So I set about removing the seats , stripped the carpets out, and got rid of the old insulation. Put the seats back in and drove around like that for three months; as I was trying to find out where the water was coming from.
Once I sorted the leak(s) fingers crossed,..... I bought some cheap lightweight plastic door matting the open web type which has plenty of holes in it and fitted this in the floor pan and bulk heads; as I was thinking that it would keep the carpet off any water which may have got in.
Then fitted and laid two layers of lightweight foam matting on top of this, a couple of cheap yoga mats 12mm thick are ideal as they don't absorb water. The idea was to pack up the carpet from underneath to meet the edge of the door sills; so you also have to do the floor pan behind the seats as well, again its easier with the seats out. I also stuck a single layer of this to the sides of the centre console for a token sound insulation.
Applied double sided tape to the sill edges and refitted the original carpet, job done and still dry after two years.
As a bonus it was all a bit lighter then the original thick underfelt which acted as a sponge; so probably getting a few extra yards to the gallon.
So I set about removing the seats , stripped the carpets out, and got rid of the old insulation. Put the seats back in and drove around like that for three months; as I was trying to find out where the water was coming from.
Once I sorted the leak(s) fingers crossed,..... I bought some cheap lightweight plastic door matting the open web type which has plenty of holes in it and fitted this in the floor pan and bulk heads; as I was thinking that it would keep the carpet off any water which may have got in.
Then fitted and laid two layers of lightweight foam matting on top of this, a couple of cheap yoga mats 12mm thick are ideal as they don't absorb water. The idea was to pack up the carpet from underneath to meet the edge of the door sills; so you also have to do the floor pan behind the seats as well, again its easier with the seats out. I also stuck a single layer of this to the sides of the centre console for a token sound insulation.
Applied double sided tape to the sill edges and refitted the original carpet, job done and still dry after two years.
As a bonus it was all a bit lighter then the original thick underfelt which acted as a sponge; so probably getting a few extra yards to the gallon.
by Keymaster
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