upper suspension arm bearing wear
Checked my front wheels today due to a strange rubbing noise. what i discovered ( which i assume is unrelated) is that with the wheels off the ground i can rock them back and forth a noticable amounts at 6 and 12 and 3 and 9 oclock. at first i thought it was bearing wear, but when i put my finger between bearing and hub there was no noticable movement, and the movement appears to be at the back of the upper suspension arm - would wear of the needle bearings give play both vertically and horizonally at the wheel? how much movement is aceptable at this bearing? i woudl assume with needle bearings the answer is probably none?
if this is the issue, i note that Rimmers have two bearing and shaft kits available - OEM is 114 GBP, aftermarket 24 GBP ! is the OEM really worth the extra cost?
if this is the issue, i note that Rimmers have two bearing and shaft kits available - OEM is 114 GBP, aftermarket 24 GBP ! is the OEM really worth the extra cost?
by Gavin207
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Hi Gavin
Yes there is a difference,I fitted an aftermarket one,it only lasted 12 months.( I did have trouble removing old bearings though,so did not have the best start)
I then managed to buy a new old stock arm very cheap and picked up the fulcrum shaft of ebay for less than a tenner from (https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mg_rover_spares?_trksid=p2047675.l2559.)
The part number may be different but it does fit and is £55 cheaper than rimmers.
I have since in preparation bought another shaft for when the other fails and will use original bearings at £22 with new seals and bolts from a cheap after market one or the ones off the old arm if ok.
You can replace the arm with nearly all original parts for around £50 this way.
The first bearing is a sod to get out, but if you use a raw bolt of the right size and open it out in between the bearing races,
you can use it to drift out the first one, the other then is a piece of cake. Use threaded bar ,sockets and nuts etc to refit bearing races.
Regards Kevin
Yes there is a difference,I fitted an aftermarket one,it only lasted 12 months.( I did have trouble removing old bearings though,so did not have the best start)
I then managed to buy a new old stock arm very cheap and picked up the fulcrum shaft of ebay for less than a tenner from (https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mg_rover_spares?_trksid=p2047675.l2559.)
The part number may be different but it does fit and is £55 cheaper than rimmers.
I have since in preparation bought another shaft for when the other fails and will use original bearings at £22 with new seals and bolts from a cheap after market one or the ones off the old arm if ok.
You can replace the arm with nearly all original parts for around £50 this way.
The first bearing is a sod to get out, but if you use a raw bolt of the right size and open it out in between the bearing races,
you can use it to drift out the first one, the other then is a piece of cake. Use threaded bar ,sockets and nuts etc to refit bearing races.
Regards Kevin
by VX54NEW
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Got on with removing the bearings today. Having looked at some commercial needle bearing removal tools came up with the solution below. Firstly i removed the needles from the bearing by making a break in the inner end of the bearing shell With a punch so that i could remove the needles ( the needles have a small ‘pin’ on the end which locates. In a return on the shell). The bearing OD is 25.4mm, the ID of the shell is about 24.5mm, and a 8mm large washer OD is Approx 24.3mm. By filing two flats on a washer making it 19mm across the flats, it can be inserted into the bearing and then turned Though 90 degrees so that it sits flat behind the bearing flange. I then used an 8mm stud with nuts and washers etc. To draw the bearing shell out, using a large socket over the end of the arm.
Last Edit:4 years 4 months ago
by Gavin207
Last edit: 4 years 4 months ago by Gavin207. Reason: additional images
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