My TF's good for scrap.? => thread gearbox casing thread out of order

Big problem on my TF....

My TF was being restored but when I removed the housing to redo the clutch, the top screws were very hard.

Even if I took the clutch off delicately, here is the result:


The crankcase has never been taken apart since it left the factory.

I'm disgusted

:nonod:

Yes bad design. The steel bolt picks up in the aluminium when unscrewing, (Usually happens if bolts that are too long bottom out) it gets tighter and tighter as it comes out, and eventually the pressure caused by the aluminium trapped in the threads explodes the casting. You can see the aluminium cold welded to the bolt due to pressure!

Exactly same happened to me.

Re-assembled minus the one bolt, and never had a problem. Two bolts????

Solution would have been during build to use assembly grease on the bolts, but that would cost about 2p per bolt....

Solution now is a new engine block, or get the area built up with weld, by profesional engine specialist.

Should be able to weld and retap............easy job for any competent welder

I don't know where you are but if you are in the UK, this looks like it would be fixable. I would start by contacting whoever normally does work on your car or one of the well known mobile specialists and take it from there. As said by Cobber, a welder who works with alloy should be able to fix it. Getting it to them might be a problem, though.

That must have made you feel pretty crap when that happened. Hope it gets repaired, but keep us informed anyway.

Finally the TF is going to live again...I've been offered a complete free low engine in England.

The MG community is really awesome < 3

Seems to have had a factory tapping problem on my engine... bad luck.

I live in Switzerland, i prefere change the low engine, cast aluminium is complicated to weld.

Assembly at Rover was semi automated, its was powered calibrated tooling all the operators had to do was pull the trigger when the bolts were in place, that said it's a TF which means it was built during the Phoenix four years during that time tooling was not changed but source materials were, bolts fixing etc were all sourced from suppliers who were forced to reduce costs or new cheaper suppliers, this affected quality greatly also some build methods were reduced so especially in the paint shop treatments were deleted, hence the poor corrosion resistance of TF's compared to MK1 F's, of course this is no comfort to you and I feel your frustration but I just wanted to give a little explanation as why the later cars suffer so badly from poor build quality, I was an Electrical Controls Engineer in Longbridge from 1984 -2000 the paint shop where the MGF was built was my last major project, I worked on the Mini plant from then on until I was forced to work for BMW when they sold (I didn't I left) I then worked for a system integrator and contracted to Longbridge so saw the demise first hand.

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I can see why subframes rust so much....

I found a complete used K 135 engine for £841 in Switzerland.

The only problem is the air conditioning on it.

On my TF I don't have air-conditioning, I wanted to know if it comes off easily?

thx a lot

Shouldn't be a problem, if there is any great difference, just use the hardware off your old engine.

Finally I get a low engine and block from England. At least the jdc will be new and the oil rail reinforced.

bugman23 wrote: .....
On my TF I don't have air-conditioning, I wanted to know if it comes off easily?

thx a lot

The air con pump and its mounting bracket are held on with a few bolts. Remove these and use your alternator mounts.