Has the old girl still got it?

BruceTF135 wrote:

richardgr88 wrote: Keep the bits because when you dismantle the headlights to install halo DRLs, you can stick them back with superglue!

Don't give me more ideas

Haha so you speak from experience! I know what you mean about the legged pyramid thing.....when I install the bulb Monday evening before the MOT I'm thinking of like you say just wiggling it about until it is aligned up a bit.

Ordered a new badge for the front too....fingers still crossed - hoping for some dry days too

The results are in:

Not too disappointing - especially for an 18 year old car that hasn't been driven since late 2018.

Windscreen washer = *facepalm* should have fixed that before it went in.
Front brakes = likely a stuck or sticky caliper, maybe some air in the system or the low fluid.

And the most concerning......vehicle overheated at the end of test

Have spoken with the garage and they said there wasn't any loss of coolant but there was no heat from the heating in the cabin. Wondering if maybe a stuck thermostat or something else. Never overheated one before - even chucking it around mountain roads in mid summer in Italy and the South of France. Hope it's not too bad.....we will have to see....


Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Windscreen washer not working (3.5 (a))
Front Brakes imbalanced across an axle (1.2.1 (b) (i))
Offside Front Service brake lagging in operation (1.2.1 (d))
Front Brakes imbalanced across an axle Axle 1 (1.2.1 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake hydraulic reservoir close to minimum mark (1.1.10 (d) (i))
slight corrosion on both rear brake discs
vehicle overheated at end of test
Front Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively (1.2.1 (e))

richardgr88 wrote: The results are in:

Windscreen washer = *facepalm* should have fixed that before it went in.
Front brakes = likely a stuck or sticky caliper, maybe some air in the system or the low fluid.

And the most concerning......vehicle overheated at the end of test

Have spoken with the garage and they said there wasn't any loss of coolant but there was no heat from the heating in the cabin. Wondering if maybe a stuck thermostat or something else. Never overheated one before - even chucking it around mountain roads in mid summer in Italy and the South of France. Hope it's not too bad.....we will have to see....

There is a lot of advice on The-T-Bar re the brakes and the coolant system. I would be reluctant to advise on the brakes but if you are confident I suppose a sticky caliper is something you could investigate.

The fact that the car was overheating yet there was no hot air from the heater suggests that either the system is blocked in some way or has an airlock. I would start with the latter by bleeding the system through the 3 bleed points starting from front to back. I find it is always necessary to repeat this a couple of times after running the car for a short run each time. Beware that the bleed point from the heater blocks easily. If nothing comes out, give it a poke with a bit of wire.

I have had a problem with the PRT not working correctly. The car did not overheat but there was a slight leak from the pipes at the back of the tunnel which seemed to be pressure-related. Anyway, I changed the PRT and it seems OK now (1year later). It's an easy job.

Check that the radiator is hotter at the top than the bottom (or is it the other way around?) when the car is warmed up.

Get in there!

Date tested
21 October 2020
PASS
Test location
View test location
Expiry date
20 October 2021
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Brake hydraulic reservoir close to minimum mark (1.1.10 (d) (i))
slight corrosion on both rear brake discs
vehicle overheated at end of test
Front Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively (1.2.1 (e))

Thanks Bruce - they fixed the brakes for me. I'm going to tax the car and go check it out later. See what is going on with the coolant. All was well the other day so perhaps a blip to keep an eye on - got warm in the cabin the other day also.

I've also got a spare radiator bleed bold and expansion tank cap at home which I took away with us once in event of an emergency. Will be keeping those handy again. Going to also check radiator and pipes when up to temp.

Checked the car when I got to my parents where the car was (they have a drive) and the fluid was low but not gone so topped it up to max. Ran the car for a bit on the driveway until the coolant was up to temp with the cap off in the thought that any bubbles there might be will have worked their way out - the return pipe was squirting nicely into the expansion tank also.

Took the car for about a 10 mile journey - fairly gingerly at first while keeping an eye on the oil and coolant temp gauges....all good. Gave it a bit more beans on the way back - with temps where they should be and the Daytona crying out for some attention hard not too. Despite what every warning says I carefully opened the expansion tank lid using a cloth as my protection (plus taking it slowly) - coolant was exactly where it should be.

.....decided to drive it home for 20 miles involving dual carriage ways and ring road so up to 70, good bit of breaking and pulling off at roundabouts and some more beans on slip roads. Did not skip a beat. Left it for some time to cool down (didn't want to risk burnt fingers twice) and coolant exactly where I left it so will keep an eye.

Also very toast and warm from the heating in the cabin - so much so I had to have the window open.....I forgot the TF only had 2 heating settings of boiling or mildly warm hehe.

Fingers crossed for the journey to work tomorrow

2 points I noted on the way home. I need to fix the wiring of the dipped bulb on the nearside as violet bumps make it go off - the blade connector was a bit damaged it looked like so maybe a bit of wiring with a new crimp connector to be done there.

Secondly particularly when stopping or stopped - the handbrake light comes on and flickers a bit......I wonder if thats what they thought the overheat was - fingers crossed it is!

richardgr88 wrote: 2 points I noted on the way home. I need to fix the wiring of the dipped bulb on the nearside as violet bumps make it go off - the blade connector was a bit damaged it looked like so maybe a bit of wiring with a new crimp connector to be done there.

Glad to hear that the brakes are sorted and that the overheating might be an anomaly.

I had a problem with the connection of one of the dipped headlights on my TF. I replaced the bulb connector. Pictures, including the repair, are here.

This is the part. H7 2 Pin Headlight Replacement Repair Bulb Holder Connector Plug Wire Socket Buy It Now

Nice one Bruce and good write up. Look like mine suffered the same fate as yours in the photos.

Quick Update

Been having a blast driving the old girl to work a few times last week (handy on with a country road commute 20 miles each way).

Have fixed the flickering handbrake light with some more brake fluid.

Have fixed the dodgey headlight with one of the connectors recommended by Bruce, thanks for that and got a spare too.

Really tempted by DRL angel eyes/halo's!! lol

Done about 100 miles and coolant marginally went down (a few mm) but only seems to go down when left over night for a few nights. Hoping not bled properly. No steam from the exhaust and can't see any obviously locations of loss.

Had a silly moment the other day when I was chatting to a friend who lives a street down from our - of course left the headlights on and wouldn't start. Had to walk to one of the other cars and use it for a jump. New battery also fitted as the previous one was from 2013 when I got the car and who knows how long before.

New badge ready too - will get another for the back.

Loving the Daytona 3k revs+. Basically a Tesla <3k rpm. 5k RPM F1 car heheheheh