Re:MGF subframe mount replacement
Hi,
I'm replacing all eight subframe mounts on my 1999 MGF VVC with Mike Satur solid mounts. I'm doing this without removing the subframes or the engine from the car.
What has got me stumped is the rear mounts on the rear subframe. After removing the nut on the long bolt, there isn't enough room to take out the bolt because it hits the engine casing. I have cut one bolt to get it out, but I can't get the replacement bolt back in.
The new bolts are about 20mm too long, so that's how much extra clearance I need. So, how do I get the bolts in?
If anyone has done this before and can point me in the right direction to solve this, I'd be forever grateful!
Many Thanks.
Sent from my Nokia 7 plus using Tapatalk
I'm replacing all eight subframe mounts on my 1999 MGF VVC with Mike Satur solid mounts. I'm doing this without removing the subframes or the engine from the car.
What has got me stumped is the rear mounts on the rear subframe. After removing the nut on the long bolt, there isn't enough room to take out the bolt because it hits the engine casing. I have cut one bolt to get it out, but I can't get the replacement bolt back in.
The new bolts are about 20mm too long, so that's how much extra clearance I need. So, how do I get the bolts in?
If anyone has done this before and can point me in the right direction to solve this, I'd be forever grateful!
Many Thanks.
Sent from my Nokia 7 plus using Tapatalk
by Teknon
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Hi all from frozen Melbourne. We've had a blast of cold air from Antarctica for the last two weeks giving us real "brass monkey" weather.
To make things clearer, I have attached two photos.
The first shows the new mount from Mike Satur. The big difference is there is no separate nut; it's welded onto the plate. The bolt goes through the subframe and screws directly into the mount plate.
The second photo shows the old left rear mount in position on the car looking from the rear. (I have already removed the right rear mount). On the old mount, the bolt goes through the mount from the rear then through the subframe and is held in place by a nut on the other side of the subframe.
So the standard setup doesn't need much clearance between the subframe and the engine. Just enough for the nut. The Mike Satur design has the bolt going in the opposite direction, coming through the subframe from the front, so it needs the entire length of the bolt clearance from the engine. By my measurement, the bolt is 150mm and the available clearance is about 140mm (for the right rear mount).
I spoke to Mike Satur about this and he suggests undoing the engine mounts and moving the engine to create the clearance I need. That seems like a lot of work and rather risky.
I hope that clarifies my problem.
Many thanks.
--
1999 75th Anniversary MGF VVC
2001 Rover 75 Connoisseur KV6 2.5 Auto
To make things clearer, I have attached two photos.
The first shows the new mount from Mike Satur. The big difference is there is no separate nut; it's welded onto the plate. The bolt goes through the subframe and screws directly into the mount plate.
The second photo shows the old left rear mount in position on the car looking from the rear. (I have already removed the right rear mount). On the old mount, the bolt goes through the mount from the rear then through the subframe and is held in place by a nut on the other side of the subframe.
So the standard setup doesn't need much clearance between the subframe and the engine. Just enough for the nut. The Mike Satur design has the bolt going in the opposite direction, coming through the subframe from the front, so it needs the entire length of the bolt clearance from the engine. By my measurement, the bolt is 150mm and the available clearance is about 140mm (for the right rear mount).
I spoke to Mike Satur about this and he suggests undoing the engine mounts and moving the engine to create the clearance I need. That seems like a lot of work and rather risky.
I hope that clarifies my problem.
Many thanks.
--
1999 75th Anniversary MGF VVC
2001 Rover 75 Connoisseur KV6 2.5 Auto
Last Edit:2 years 5 months ago
by Teknon
Last edit: 2 years 5 months ago by David Aiketgate. Reason: inserted pics
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Relatively speaking it shouldn’t be too difficult to move the engine enough to get clearance without removing it.
I’mMelbourne based in Burwood so might be able to offer assistance .
I’ll PM you my phone number (you’ll probably have to leave a message as I seldom hear the damned thing ring)
I’mMelbourne based in Burwood so might be able to offer assistance .
I’ll PM you my phone number (you’ll probably have to leave a message as I seldom hear the damned thing ring)
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
by Cobber
The following user(s) said Thank You: David Aiketgate
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