Fob issues

Hi All,
So, the fob that I usually use has been progressively getting worse and worse on the unlocking/locking front. I thought mainly due to the rubber buttons disintegrating.
I came up with a great idea to pt something rigid between the actual button on the PCB and the inside of the cover. Enter modellers plastic card - 1mm thick. So I took the back off the fob, removed the battery, and did just that. Put it all back together again and noticed a distinct improvement on the action of the button. I could feel and hear the ‘click’. Pleased with myself I went to try an unlock. Nothing. Unlocked with key and tried a locking - nothing. Attempted a start of engine - NOTHING! I’m guessing the battery was out a bit too long. So out with the manual, for a presumably re synching fob with car. Read about the key code, found the key code on the other set of keys on a small plastic sliver and also on some cards with the radio code and VIN. My question is before I start to do the key in lock twiddling although the manual just states do the key twiddle X times per digit, how does the control unit ‘know’ which digit you’re inputting? I.e if the code is 1,2,3,4 does the CU just expect 1+2+3+4, 10 + 1 for the confirmation. There’s no mention in the manual about leaving any length of time between digit inputs, do you need to.
Can I purchase a new fob and allocate my key code to it? Would that be best in the long run given that the original button issue might still be there?
Apologies for the essay, but I suppose I’m a bit paranoid about screwing something up good ‘n’ proper inadvertently.
Regards,
Michael.

There are replacement fob covers with new rubber buttons readily available on fleabay.
You just pull the guts outta your old one and shove it in the new.
Now as to how you go about rematching the fob and car, I use the Pscan, I’ve never done it any other way, so I’ve got no idea, sorry

Many thanks Cobber for the speedy reply.
Having re-read the manual, I think the key twiddling isn’t what I should be doing as this disables the engine immobilisation. Handset resync is apparently done by being close to the car, pressing any button quickly until the door locks. Tried this but no joy….🤷‍♂️
To get the key to start the ignition the plain button has to be pressed with the key in the ignition.
I’ll try that.
👍🏻
Michael.

Just tried the key in ignition and pressing the plain button on the fob - nothing.
M

As Cobber says you can get a replacement case & rubber buttons to swap the electronics over. You can also get a refurbishing kit with the case, two replacement switches & battery.
You would need to be handy with a fine pointed soldering iron but given time & an appropriate amount of peace & quiet you would have a completely refreshed remote.
Again eBay is your friend & YouTube could be your guide.
M

Thanks Mike for your input.
I’ve ordered a replacement case from EB.
Had the multimeter on the switches again, did it initially hence the time lag without the battery installed and they bell out perfectly.
Tomorrow I’ll try the fob without its case and try to resynch.
Maybe the issue wasn’t the button actions maybe it was on its last legs in general.
I’ve de/soldered surface mount stuff before, not something I particularly go looking to do but as long as the components are end solder and larger than 5x3mm I’ll have a go.
Re: External Ambient Temperature widget, it’s slowly going down the priority list behind the fob, Freelander service and headlining replacement, and general cr*p weather(no indoor facilities - it’s Yorkshire innit).
Cheers,
Michael.

General crap weather! It’s no different on this side Pennines, I’m not too bad as I’ve got the garage & the workshop but I got absolutely piss wrapped going from one to the other, so every sympathy. I’ve been surface mount soldering earlier, brought together all the sections of a job I’ve been working on for the first time & it works (hurrah) apart from one section which found itself on a different negative line. One crock lead later & all’s well.
M

I have had to re-sync the fob multiple times over the last few months, this method has always been successful.

Lock the car manually then press the unlock button (or lock) until the lights flash and the alarm is disabled. This usually takes 4 or 5 presses.

Hope that helps.

Hi,
Thanks.
Saw that in the manual. Tried it several times with no luck. It just seems completely dead after my messing about with it!
Bizarrely, my Freelander 1’s fob looks exactly the same and probably is, was playing up when I went to the post office to the MG’s. Once it was posted and not on my person, the FL’s remote worked perfectly!! 🤷‍♂️ So it seems it’s doing something but not correctly for the MG.
I’ve sent it off to Remotefobcentre for refurbishment.
Cheers,
Michael.

An update on the key fob. Returned from Key Fob Centre and it worked perfectly first time.
Highly recommended.
Cheers for all your help.
Michael.