I have just replaced the Front Wheel Bearing on my TF.  I followed the instructions in the workshop manual, but that misses-out any instruction to remove the ABS Sensor from the hub!!

I also followed advice in Roger Parker's "MGF and TF Restoration" book, which has wise advice which allows the job to be done without resorting to various Rover special tools.

Having completed one side and found that making a couple of wooden struts made the job much easier I thought I would pass-on my experience.

I searched this site for a "How-To" on the subject of front wheel bearing change, but there does not seem to be one.  Cj'sFront Upper Ball Joint replacement - How ToIs very helpful, but does not cover the problems I had with getting enough room to pull the stem of the upper joint out of the hole in the top suspension arm. so here are my ideas:

The workshop Manual shows this method of holding the upper arm high enough:

My attempts to use that location resulted in crushed wood and nowhere nearly enough clearance to remove the balljoint.
This DID work:
 
A clamp helped keep it in situ:
 

This shows shapes & sizes, the longer strut was used to jack-up the upper arm. 
 
The scars highlighted in red are where the wood touches the suframe.  Removing wood in these areas helps keep the strut in-situ.  The strut shown is what I made and used on the right front. (Drivers side on a British, RHD car).  For the LHS, the cut-outs will need to be on the opposite face.


I found that the hardest job was lifting & separating the Hub from the lower suspension joint.  There was more rust on the pinch bolt than anywhere else on the whole suspension assembly.  I had to use a cold chisel (see bottom of photo).  I aligned that chisel as near vertical as possible and had to thump seven shades of sh*** out of it to move the hub up and off the lower balljoint.

My other advice relates to the removal of the 32mm/1.25" hub nut.  The Workshop Manual blithely says "Knock back hub nut stake and remove hub nut" Yeah--- right!

As this nut has to be retightened to 210Nm, and the "Stake" is difficult to totally eliminate/return to an undistorted curve, then you can expect this nut to put up a FIGHT! (Mine did!!!)
My advice, as-per Roger Parker is:
1. Loosen whellnuts slightly
2. Jack up that corner and use axle stands securely.
3. Remove roadwheel and push-out the central MG badge.
4. Bend back the staked area of the Flange nut.  I found that an old, 1/4" wide wood chisel worked well, by driving it into the gap , followed by radial hammering.
5. Replace roadwheel and lower corner back to the ground. Ensure that the handbrake is fully on and chock the wheel you have just lowered.
6. Using the 32mm or 1.25" socket, undo the Flange nut .  It is useful to put on enough steering lock to allow you to keep the breaker bar as close as possible to the tyre, to avoid peeling the socket off the nut.  Those with impact drivers will be glad they invested in that tool!

Read More...