This might be helpful:
1 similar spec to what you looked at, one at an out of this World price!
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I agree 100% with the "Overpriced" comment by TA22GT, especially in view of your mention of
"there was an advisory for front suspension arms corroded (but not weakened) so they'll need doing at some point"
These lower arms are notorious for collecting water & mud and therefore corrode. Either use this as a way to get the price down, or find a better deal!
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Kidcreation, assuming you have not yet paid any money as deposit or outright purchase, I would make the following observations:
1. Whilst that rust could be removed, treated & painted, it looks very much like the surrounding sills and probably other areas have already been re-sprayed. If so, rust has re-appeared and that makes me doubt that the panels were properly prepared before that (cosmetic??) re-spray. If I were considering that car, I would insist on taking a good look underneath, to see what other rust is visible. The front mounts of both the front & rear sub-frames have a reputation for rotting first. There is also a notorious mud-trap at the back of the front wheel arches. Water & muck drop down the wheel-arch liner, and are trapped between plastic & steel. Rot follows.
2. How much service history, invoices or (ideally) a photo history of work being done. Cambelt changes and a properly replaced head gasket are the two "must haves" in my mind, unless the car is cheap.
Back in March 2021, I found rust in the same rear sill area as you. Photos of the rust spots and the re-spray are attached. At least your paint colour will be easier to match than my Starlight Silver!
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As I said:
"by rapidly pressing the LOCK button on each fob, while it is near to the car."
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whenever you change the battery in the fob OR the 12Volt battery in the car, you must re-synchronise BOTH fobs, by rapidly pressing the LOCK button on each fob, while it is near to the car.
Hopefully, you left the car doors un-locked. If so, I suggest you do this re-synchronisation sitting in the car. It should work with the fob outside the car, as long as you are very close. I do this every spring after re-connecting the main battery, which I always disconnect when I take the car off the road for winter.
You should hear the locks activate after the third or forth rapid press. I THINK it is possible to recover the correct EKA for your car using PSCAN software with a suitable computer plugged-in to the data port. Hopefully, there is someone in Greece who can help?
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Very much reccommended if you dont have it as yet: Roger Parker's Everyday Modifications For Your MGF and TF
Despite the title there is a vast amount of general useful information in there
Yes I have both of Roger Parker's books and have found them very useful.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266960075744?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UpGj-3oUS0O&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7vIyORCuRHq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi...is this the same gentleman by any chance?
He does rears too. Very attractive prices if the fit is good.
I am relying on my memory of 2 years ago, but I THINK that Ebay ad is the supplier I used.
As regards "if the fit is good", there is a fundamental problem with ANY adaptor bracket which locates on the two surfaces MG spot-faced to accept the heads of the M12 bolts, rather than the fully machined side of the same holes which the calliper carrier attaches to when in the standard, 240mm disc position. I tried to explain this problem to the supplier when he blamed "inconsistent machining" for the difficulty I experienced. my email text was:Thanks for the quick reply. You mention "Inconsistency" in MG's machining, which is undeniably true BUT, to be fair to them, the Al Alloy adaptor is attached to (and effectively positioned by) the two surfaces MG spot-faced to accept the heads of the M12 bolts, NOT the reference face of the standard callipers. I suspect the machining tolerance for THAT (reference) face is much tighter. Inaccuracy/inconsistency of the spot-facing only effects the depth of penetration of the attachment bolts, which would only become a problem if it was wrong by a couple of mm.
The end result of this is that you MUST be prepared to carefully check that the alloy adaptor with the calliper carrier attached ends up with equal width spaces either side of the disc. As the 280mm disc does NOT have any retaining bolts (as per the std 240mm discs) you need 4 bolts with the correct thread to suit the wheel studs. It is a metric fine size IIRC. These will allow you to bolt the disc on without the wheel, so that you can check you have the right washers between adaptor & Hub. Hope that makes sense!!
You need to read the Word doc I sent to help limit confusion.
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I notice you have calliper spacers for bigger discs..280mm route?
I'm going that way and wondering whatsort of upgrade it is as far as stopping power. I will also fit harder pads.
I don't have ABS.
Thanks..
Yes, 280mm discs in a kit I bought on Ebay from someone called William Naylor. If you contact him directly he could sell to you direct and avoid Ebay commission: All the spelling mistakes are his, not mine!
The text of a reply he sent me after I queried a few things is below: william naylor <[email protected]>
Sent: 16 February 2023 11:16
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 280mm Disc conversion kit MGF/TF Hello john thanks for the information
this is the first time i have heard more packing is needed this is due to the inconsistancy of MGs machining .. usually one does suffice either thick or thin
Re centering ring i have never found one necessary .. it was on a rear conversion using Peugeot 266mm discs this was done by VHS
they slotteed out the holes ( crazy idea ) so you had to have a centering ring
I have met Roger a few times at the NEC and we have chatted about brakes
The design you have is years old and was done with that was available at the time i reverse engineered it .due to demand and have sold many along with the 280 rear as they compliment each other 240mm all round up to 280m mall round
I designed a new set up using mini cooper 294mm discs and calipers it is in my view far better engineered than the 280m ,but costs more due to the amount of new parts in it
Its one of my Freestyles at the moment .. if only they had made it like that
Thanks for info .. i will keep and eye on it
did you have a 280mm rear as well . ?
W naylor I am attaching a Word document which you might find useful. The braking effect is MUCH better than standard, my one reservation is that the adaptor places the calliper about 1mm too far out. As a result, the discs are contacted all the way out to the edge (no bad thing perhaps?) but a lip only 1mm or so wide develops on the outer edges of the pads. PM me if you want more details, I took plenty of pictures.
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Does the main hub nut undo the regular way, anticlockwise, on both sides ?
Yes, both sides are conventional right-hand threads. I see that there is only one part number: (RFG100090 for "with ABS" version)) for the TF front stub axles, which confirms that the threads must be identical.
I did the LHS earlier today. The only difficult job was, as on the RHS, the lower joint, which was just as rusty. A liberal soaking with WD40 and the near vertical cold chisel helped. I suspect that the design of this joint is to blame. There is an open slot which water, mud and other corrosive road grime will enter and soak the pinch bolt + the hole it sits in.
My strut worked on the LHS with minor modification adding a cut out on the flank to make it ambidextrous.
As you can see from the photo, this strut gives plenty of headroom to allow the balljoint taper on the top balljoint to be removed and re-inserted after the bearings have been replaced.
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