Airportable wrote: Using a new cat’ for the test & getting that all important piece of paper was my plan & to pop the old (failure) one on for the rest of the year. For a couple of years all was well, until I didn’t have time to do the swap & chucked it in with fingers crossed. It sailed through.
Do I now have two good cat’s or two big disappointments waiting to happen.
M
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The instrument binnicle cover on these things has a bad habit of cracking and breaking...the plastic is very brittle.
I wouldn't be surprised if the mountings aren't broken, as for a solution you probably need to find another...but good luck with that, they're as rare as rocking horse shit!
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It would be useful if you could furnish us with more imformation about under which circumstances the idle problem occurs.
Help us help you.
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Airportable wrote: It’s not as much the voltage that requires monitoring, it’s the current.
There is a shut down sequence which resets all circuits down to a quiescent current of around 250ma (this was the value on my car a couple of days ago). Even inexpensive digital multimeter have a 10amp range, once this range is selected, it can be introduced in series with the battery & a useful indication of the current being drawn indicated.
Don’t try & start the car with this connected, it will melt in a most impressive fashion.
M
I have a simple in line ammeter that plugs into the fuse holder, this allows you to see the current leakage through individual circuits. Actually I have 2 one is 20 amps and the other is 60amps.
You do need to make sure everything on that circuit is turned off, then you use it to replace the fuse and you can see how much current draw is through that circuit. if every thing is off then the reading will indicate not only a leakage but also it's magnitude.
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Notanumber wrote: Its a tricky one because the fault is inconsistent.
As part of your fault finding I would fist reccommend a cheap digital voltage gauge and wiring it ideally to come on with the accessory position of the ignition switch (radio feed) . There are several types available from Ebay and actually they dont look bad as a permanent fixture, about the same diameter as a cigarette lighter socket.
That way you will be able to see if there has been a bit of a drop overnight but just not enough of a drop to prevent starting.
You can get voltage meters the can just plug into the ciggy lighter socket, saving a bit of buggerising about.
But I agree with the idea of first checking for wiring insulation damage!
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Notanumber wrote: Nothing to do with MGFs and TFs but I'm looking to sell a 3.5 V8 from a Rover V8 and a Lt77 gearbox cheaply. Strictly buyer collects.
I got it years ago with a view to doing a v8 conversion to my MGB project car but plans changed and I'd rather have the space back.
If you know anyone who may be interested the rule is the less hassle to me and the quicker it goes, the cheaper they can have it.
I'd put my hand up...but for the fact that you're on the wrong side of the planet!
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Nah they drive better at 80!Airportable wrote: Hum, we’ve just dropped a 200tdi in an S3 109, a 3.5 would have been nice but you’re a long way for an old gezzer to drive down in the only suitable vehicle that would take such an oily lump; that is another 109 which is not a nice ride at any speed over 45mph.
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Try clearing the fault......if it comes back you have a problem, if it stays cleared you don't!
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Check the electrical connections at the sender unit at het fuel tank they may be loose or corroded
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