I would go along with that.
Why would it be specific only to competition cars..he wouldn't sell any..
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I absolutely know Bruce will oblige.
He is a gentleman and his kit is stellar. The instructions are superb.
His only shortcoming is that he was the bass player in his band but still, someone has to do it..😁😁
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My advice would be to open and leave open all the bleed points when filling, then when coolant comes out of each one in turn close that particular point and so on until all are done. Then start the motor and check the points again individually until there are no air bubbles. Good luck.
Yep..good advice..the header tank (coolant vessel) isn't much higher than the bleed points and if they are just cracked open it will only dribble out.
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I don't know of a video Len but there is a really good description in the "How To" section.
Very clear and precise.
Good luck!
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Hello and welcome officially!
As you no doubt have found there are some serious enthusiasts on this site that give help freely and willingly.
Look forward to you joining in.
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I agree about Roverlike..is he Batman?
And your second premise is also very plausible...I wonder if a link wire could test that theory out...and then you would be Robin...
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Hi Mexiii
You seem pretty capable of getting this thing running again but I will offer a few tips if you have no written guidance.
Replace that piston and replace the rings on all of the pistons. Check the ring gaps once installed, there will be info in the ring pack. Don't assume they are "factory" gapped.
For instance ...info can say for Road use 15thou...or for Race use 40thou...you need to check the gap so they don't expand too much and nip in the bore and break. The compression ring is the important one.
Spin the rings around so that the gaps are about a third of the circumference away from each other.
Once the pistons are ready to be fitted in to the bores deglaze the bores with 400grit wet dry lightly to remove the varnish and allow the new rings to bed in.
Smother the rings with assembly grease..many types on Ebay...and carefully fit in to the bores with the pistons facing the right way.
Replace the Big end bearing shells.
Clean the surfaces in the conrod and the cap and press in the new shells on to a clean conrod surface. Do Not use assembly grease on the back of the shells..it will effect the torque of the con rod and cap.
Once the shells are in place then lightly grease the bearing surface and the crank journals with assembly grease. Do not use grease on the conrod and cap mating surfaces where they are bolted together.
Refer to the MG manual for the correct torque settings for the bearing caps.
For instance with forged Eagle rods they give you 3 different torques setting for using the bolts dry..with oil..or with assembly grease. I am fairly sure MG will say lightly oil the bolts and give you a torque figure. CHECK.
Cleanliness is your friend when assembling an engine. It will smoke from the assembly grease on start up but will burn off quickly.
If you refurbish the head be sure to use assembly grease on the camshaft bearing surfaces!
I am pretty confident you will end up with a nicely running engine.
Good luck!
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