Thinking of buying...

1) Is it not engaging fully in the "hook" above the screen, or is it just tight to latch over?

If not engaging on hook reliably, then some lithium grease sprayed in the latch and on the hook (not too much ) should sort it out.

If it is just tight, then there is a small nut in the latch, locked by a clip. Prise the clip off the nut (it is retained) and turn the nut a few times. Will relieve some pressure in the latching mechanism.

2) Reverse is often difficult to engage. Can sometimes be improved by a cable adjustment, but can be tricky. Leave it for a few months, then see if it is still a problem, then review it again.

The role bars (or "hoops") were always an option or add on. Non of the available hoops will offer any useful protection in the event of rolling it. Fit them if you like the looks, otherwise forget them.

mgtfbluestreak wrote: Is it correct that early seats mgf are lower than later tf?

sorry just spotted this question.
In fact the MK1 F seats are higher than mk2F/TF seats.

G0RSQ wrote: 1) Is it not engaging fully in the "hook" above the screen, or is it just tight to latch over?

I’ll have to have a proper look at it tomorrow, but what happened was that the handle you pull wouldn't move, so the latch didn’t move towards the hook. After staring at it for long enough, I moved the latch bit with my finger, without using the handle thingy at all, and it engaged with the hook fine. So I guess the problem is with the mechanism between the handle and the latch bit…?

G0RSQ wrote: 2) Reverse is often difficult to engage. Can sometimes be improved by a cable adjustment, but can be tricky. Leave it for a few months, then see if it is still a problem, then review it again.

Will do But so much of talking to people like you is to establish if it’s just a feature of these cars, or if I have a problem. My Rover 75 has plenty of such “features”, so I’m cool with that it if’s just how they are.

G0RSQ wrote: The role bars (or "hoops") were always an option or add on. Non of the available hoops will offer any useful protection in the event of rolling it. Fit them if you like the looks, otherwise forget them.

No, I was purely thinking of safety. But I’m an old man now, so it hopefully won’t be a problem

Most designs of hoop are NOT structural and will likely cause more injury as they break loose than if they weren't there. The windscreen surround will actually support the weight of the car.

The PG1 box has never been great at going into reverse and I've had quite a few since it was introduced in the early 1980s, I find double declutching helps.

talkingcars wrote: Most designs of hoop are NOT structural and will likely cause more injury as they break loose than if they weren't there. The windscreen surround will actually support the weight of the car.

Thanks - I'll forget about it. I wasn't that concerned anyway - I just have the (unfortunate) kind of mind which doesn't like missing pieces... like the crook at the start of Dirty Harry, who didn't reach for his gun because Harry just MIGHT have had a round left in his Magnum, I HAVE to know!

talkingcars wrote: The PG1 box has never been great at going into reverse and I've had quite a few since it was introduced in the early 1980s, I find double declutching helps.

Cheers, I'll try that. I'm not driving it regularly yet - although it has only 13,000 on the clock, it is 13 years old, and has never had the cam belt done (this Friday hopefully). Do you think I'm being over-cautious...?

Hogweed wrote: Cheers, I'll try that. I'm not driving it regularly yet - although it has only 13,000 on the clock, it is 13 years old, and has never had the cam belt done (this Friday hopefully). Do you think I'm being over-cautious...?

Having just had to pay out £670 on eight new valves after the cam belt snapped on the ZR I would say no, you're not being over cautious.
(the belt was due on age but not mileage).

talkingcars wrote: Having just had to pay out £670 on eight new valves after the cam belt snapped on the ZR I would say no, you're not being over cautious. (the belt was due on age but not mileage).

Wow - glad I asked :omg:

So as I desperately search for a local mechanic who can actually be bothered to do the belt for me, it seems I have plenty of time on my hands to wonder whether the water pump and tensioner should be replaced at the same time?

Car has only 13,000 on the clock, but is 13 years old. I guess the rubber of the belt will deteriorate over time, but not sure about things like tensioners and pumps?

Always replace the tensioner and water pump at the same time as the belt.:yesnod:

Also check the hoses as ours was hgf'd by a perrished pipe when we got it.