Clutch Slave cylinder seal- How to fit.

I had to change my Clutch slave cylinder seal. It's simple to do but I thought it might be useful for those who haven't done it before.

PLEASE NOTE: Clutch and Brake Fluid WILL strip the paint off your car. DO NOT spill any or rest your hands on the bodywork if you have been handling the Fluid. If you get a spill wash immediately with lots of clean water.

Tools:
11mm socket/spanner
10mm socket/spanner
New seal kit (The motor factors will want to sell you a complete new cylinder, so if your having trouble getting one, get a Classic MINI seal kit (1985 on) from Minispares in London or Minisport in Padiham.)
Clutch/Brake Fluid.
Rags - to be thrown away staright after.
Lots of water (in case of spillage)
Long Nose Pliers
Flat blade screwdriver
Stanely Knife.



1: Undo rear hood clips and support the hood (I use a bit of velcro to hold up the rear of the hood). Remove the rear carpet, soundproofing and engine cover,

2: Have a look just above the gearbox and nestled partially obscured by the airfilter box (I have a K&N so no box in the way), you will see the Clutch Slave Cylinder.



3: You now have to undo the arm/pin. This is a tiny 'R' clip that will just pull off. (This little bugger WILL drop into the engine bay at the first opportunity so be careful) Just behind the 'R' clip there should be a washer, remove this and then gently push the clevis pin out.




4: Pull the arm out and put it safe with the rest of the bits.



5: Gently push on the clutch pedal and you will see the piston push to the front of the cylinder (even if it's leaking). Be careful with any leaking fluid and wiggle the piston out of the cylinder, it will pop out with a bit of persuasion. There is a long spring attached. You might be able to see where my rubber seal has split.



6: With a Clean rag and a bit of brake fluid, wipe around the inside of the cylinder to make sure there is no grit/dirt inside. I then cut off the old seal with a pair of snips and inserted a new one on. These go one way round, the flange facing the spring. I used a blunt screwdriver end to persuade the new rubber over the piston. It's easier to go from the spring end.



7: Next put the new dust cover on the clutch arm. This may not be necessary but it's with the kit anyway so you may as well do it.



8: Clean the piston thoroughly with a bit of brake fluid and 'moisten' the new rubber with fluid. Then re-insert the piston into the cylinder, give it a firm push and it will pop back in.



9: Now push the arm into the cylinder and force the piston back, this can be made a bit easier by slacking off the bleed nipple on top of the cylinder, but be careful of brake fluid squirting everywhere. I found it wasn't needed.



10: Line up the cylinder arm with the clutch arm (fiddly)Re-insert the clevis pin, put the washer back on and re-insert the 'R' clip, then wiggle the new dust cover over the end of the cylinder (fiddly). Your Done!!



Now for the Bleeding: I used a Gunsons Pressure Bleed Kit. These are about £15.00 and an absolutely brilliant piece of kit. It uses the pressure from your tyres to force the fluid through the system and I have never had a poor bleed or air in the system from this kit. Also there is no pumping of the clutch/brake pedals when bleeding.

Try this as well http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/clutch_replacement_MGF.htm

Thanks a lot for your clear instructions on clutch hydrolics repair. The bleeding kit is great. I got my spareparts from Rimmerbros.

kind regards, Marco

:welcome2: Marco.:yesnod:

THANKS for the picture setup explained why my clutch slave kept losing fluid SOME DONUT fitted the seal back to front.

Keep up the good work

drive safe
madpete

Interesting this turning up today, I changed my rubbers this morning following the same How To. I couldn't get the piston out so had to take the cylinder off; blood & brake fluid everywhere.

I have just done this job, you need the hands of a Chinese watch maker, and knuckles like thimbles, a bloody pain, but great when you have done it.

Thanks! I ordered the seal kit next day delivery from Rimmer Bros and it was here by about 11 this morning. I'd already prepped the car (removed the engine cover) so it took me just minutes to pop out the piston, replace the seal, put it back and bleed the clutch, then hours to put it all back together a second time after realising I had put the seal in the wrong way round. Why is it so easy to assemble thngs the wrong way, and then so difficult to do it the right way? The pushrod just did not want to go in far enough to engage with the release lever and allow me to pop the clevis pin in (not helped by the fact that the slenderest of hands and fingers will not fit into the space provided!).

yes pig of a job, now try changing the clutch,lol

Where can the pictures be found for this how to ?

RussUranjek-Manning wrote:

Where can the pictures be found for this how to ?

I fear they're lost as the original author used a photo hosting service that's no longer active.

Thanks for the information Bertl 👍🏻