How to fit LED Halo DRLs to my TF

This How To was intended as an addendum to Ken (Baytown)'s article but as I ended up fitting the halos differently I'm presenting it as a stand alone How To instead...Hopefully, referring to both our efforts it should be simplicity itself for anyone else to achieve the same.
So..what did I use?
- a spare pair of TF front headlights - no point boogering my own and being without a car!
- 2 pairs of Morimoto XB LED Angel Ayes 80mm white - to be installed on the chrome headlight rings
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xbaled-angel-eyes.html#.U5M56C82wr4
- 1 reel of OCI Butyl Rubber glue - to refix the plastic headlight covers
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/oci-butyl-rubber-glue.html#.U5Nd_BaaHvY
- DRL relay module - to control the DRLs
DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS (DRL) AUTO SWITCH RELAY INDICATOR FLASH CONTROL BOX Completed
- Various connectors and cable
- 0.2mm stainless wire - to fix the halos to the chrome rings

and this is how I did it:

Remove the front bumper and the headlight units.
Take the light units, remove all the bulbs and accessories and slam in the oven for 7 mins at 130 degrees C to soften the sealant. Dig out the sealant with a screwdriver or anything else that comes to hand.


Remove the clear plastic headlight cover and clean off the sealant from the lens and the headlight body.
Remove the internal section holding the chrome rings by unscrewing the small torx screws. These screws are hidden under the remaining black sealant in 4 places.



Remove the chromed plastic rings. They are fixed in by plastic welding..Cut the melted plastic welds using a modelling knife or modelling small chisel.

Drill holes on top of the rings on either side at roughly 120 degrees using a thumb tack to mark the position and the pin wheel and .5mm bit to drill the holes.

Cut a recess for the cable ends

Use a Dremelly thingy to remove the plastic

use .2mm SS wire to secure
twist wire behind to secure



replace modified ring back into the internal section and secure using blobs of 2 pack 30 minute epoxy

Drill hole for the DRL cables, insert cables and re-install internal section into the headlight back

Lay new butyl rubber into the headlight recess

Refit the plastic lens and push into the butyl, put he headlight unit into the over for 7 mins at 130 degrees C to soften and while soft push the lens into final position. Leave to cool.
Fill any gaps with black low modulus neutral cure silicon

Install the lights into the body and wire up. Hide the DRL relay unit and wiring in the front chassis member

This particular DRL relay unit is wired this way:

A live feed was taken off the wiper motor (green/grey) on with ignition

The unit was wired into the right and left indicator circuits, the side light circuit a chassis ground and the battery positive using a 7.5amp fused connector. The DRLs take 6 amps in total normally.
And this is what they look like unilluminated..


The DRLs are illuminated when the ignition is on. They are very bright. They dim as soon as the side lights are turned on. Each side flashes with the appropriate indicator and they stay on for several seconds after remote locking.
Perfect!

Cor, what a neat job! :broon:
Real attention to detail. Well done.

One teeny thing: are lamps in synchronism with the indicators that aren't amber legal?

Great how to :clap:

Indeed, indicators must be amber, so you may need a switch for MOTs.:shrug:

David Aiketgate wrote: Indeed, indicators must be amber, so you may need a switch for MOTs.:shrug:

Thought so. Bet it looks neat though.

Good grief, I've just praised LEDs .
Time for a whisky....... :yesnod:

I thought drl's had to dim on the side that the indicator was activated so that you can see the indicator and not be masked by the drl.

cairnsys wrote: I thought drl's had to dim on the side that the indicator was activated so that you can see the indicator and not be masked by the drl.

I've just googled this and it's apparently the case. Where drl are fitted as stock they dim when indicating. On some forums, those who have fitted after-market drl have them turn off when indicating.

I guess it's all going to be down to interpretation by the rozzers and the MOT tester....

"Indeed, indicators must be amber, so you may need a switch for MOTs"

The indicators are still amber..nothing changed there..the DRLs just flash in unison..

"thought drl's had to dim on the side that the indicator was activated so that you can see the indicator and not be masked by the drl."

The indicators aren't masked by the DRL for the same reason. They flash at the same time.

but I'll check before the MOT and if the tester disagrees I'll pull the relay fuse...and search out another relay that functions correctly..

Without detracting from your fine job, I think that the point might be that because the drl are flashing with the indicators then they could be construed as (additional) direction indicators themselves. And should therefore be amber. As in side repeaters.

The letter of the law: a pain in the arris.

I think you are right John...I read it that anything that can be construed as an indicator must be amber..unless the vehicle is prior to 1968....umm..oh well..just means a change of control unit and to be fair implementing that was the easy bit..so much for Chinese sourced electronics...

So looking for a control unit that dims when that side flashes....

For now I'll just have to play dumb...not difficult in my case..