Central tunnel access

I also have a coolant leak at the heater valve. So I got spares for that and all the system pipes and have dismantled almost everything by now.

Your paper will be a great help. Thanks so much  

 

Good luck Pedro..hope all goes well for you.

Thanks so much Brian. I discovered the small leak when I was soundproofing the car following your path. I was really lucky 

I love this car, although some times I wonder why 

Soulful like an old Land Rover.

My heater valve is playing up too. When the valve is cold I can go from fully closed to fully open with the temp knob but if it is hot and I try to turn it down it only turns down halfway. I think the valve is swelling up.
I know its just the car protecting me from being cold and is only being thoughtful but I am going to have to have stern words with it.
I washed and polished it the other day and it was a beautiful sunny day so top down I drove in to town to buy a new power washer that only just fit in the boot.
Cyvling shades on, music blaring I felt like a million dollars and twenty one again.
I didn't need the heater so all is forgiven....until the day I have to change the valve!

At least you don’t need to remove heater pipes, hose, or trim to replace the valve (if you can find one).
I had “someone” do that for me on an earlier car thinking it would be a huge job but only the footwell panels were removed. The rest was achieved without disturbing anything more.
Although I had removed the engine access panel in readiness he said that was not necessary as he would have leaned in and reached across to access the water rail vent screw.
(Just as well I had removed that panel as it appears that the screw was not standard with a larger A/F which would have confused the situation.)
 

Hi, I changed the valve on my F (with new old stock one) a few years back now. Its not that hard a job, but residual water after draining going into the tunnel is a nuisance so an ideal item to use to absorb it is a child's nappy or a couple of items ladies use. Good luck Glyn.

To replace the heater water valve you have to remove the pipes along with the central dash panel and if my memory serves me right the tunnel cover around the gear stick area. G.

Thanks Glyn..Delbourt.
Its not leaking so it will get done when I have another in hand but I'm not actively looking!

For the sake of clarity.
I had the heater valve replaced on 2003 TF135 by a reputable travelling MG mechanic (expecting it to be a big job).
I had the car in the middle of a double garage (emptied of its other contents for the purpose - so plenty of clearance all round).
I do not remember exactly how long it took but probably less than 2 hours including draining, changing the valve, refilling and bleeding the system.

The only parts that were removed were the footwell panel in the drivers side and probably the equivalent on the passenger side.
Heater pipes were not touched.
Instrument panel or heater control knobs remained in place untouched throughout (other than to check operation at the end).
Hope that clarifies.

Thanks! That's helpful.
The cable from the heater knob can be unclipped at the valve and I may have just a bent inner cable making it stiff.
It"s on my very short list of things to do as so far I only have the wheels down to paint.