It is my understanding that the superlock performs as follows. If I’m wrong can someone please tell me.
It can only be engaged electronically i.e. by use of the fob.
Once engaged the door lift button, the internal and external door opening mechanisms are disabled (it probably initiates the alarm associated with any internal movement detection too but for the purposes of this discussion I’m not considering anything to do with the alarm systems).
There are two electrical motors. One to operate a spur gear and its quadrant. When locking the door the movement of the quadrant is limited by a pawl. The second is the motor associated with the superlock.
The job of the superlock motor (as far as I can see) is solely to apply a torque sufficient to swing the pawl clear of the quadrant in such a way that the standard motor can continue to rotate the quadrant to the final or maximum travel position. In that position the door button is disabled.
From what I can see thus far return movement of the quadrant does not require the pawl to be moved.by its associated motor.
If the above is accepted it would seem to suggest that any inability of the motors to open the door is more down to a different electrical problem or a failed mechanical component within the mechanism jamming it all up. In that situation I agree that a key will not open the passenger door or the driver’s door either.
If I’m right I can now understand if “machine gun” is taking place that the means to overcome the situation is to open boot/bonnet and disconnect the battery before using the key to unlock the door. In a state of panic that might not be the first thing on one’s mind. It certainly wasn’t on mine.
Why does “machine gun” occur? That is a different question and one I’m not likely to discover but it could be something to do with one of the limiting micro switches.
If the mechanism is broken with a part jamming the spur gear and quadrant , or any other part, no key will open the door but it is not a fault of the superlock specifically in my view.
As indicated I hope to have a brief description of what I have managed to discover by dismantling the one I have. But that will not be for some days .
In the interim if any one can add anything to this discussion I would welcome it.
Regarding micro switches. My first impressions are that as the door is locked either by the key or its fob a cam sweeps past one micro switches and changes its status from on to off and back on again (possibly the other way around) and my thoughts on this are that any interruptions in signal as the switch changes status could confuse the ECU and start telling it to perform the other action and set up a repeating cycle unlock/lock etc. But that is speculation.
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I am starting this discussion for two reasons. First so as not to further clutter the other topic that is running at present where the contributor is struggling to gain access to his vehicle, and secondly to educate myself about the issues with this superlock in response to a state of panic a while ago when stood watching the door buttons going up and down but not releasing the door.
It is my hope that others will comment accordingly and correct me where I am wrong.
So here is the first statement. At present I have dismantled the lock I previously removed to resolve the issue experienced as described above.
Second, what follows refers to a MGTF 135 with the Lucas fob
Third, (and someone with greater knowledge than me may well shoot me down in flames almost immediately) it is my opinion that if the battery to the car is isolated it should be possible for the mechanical key to turn the lock barrel such that the lock itself is unlocked thereby overcoming superlock.
This assumes that there are no broken components within the lock itself and that all the linkages connecting the external door handle to the lock case are correctly adjusted (remember they are threaded for adjustment so some setting up must be required).
Whilst there are numerous comments surrounding the reliability of the locks I find it hard to imagine that the design brief when the car was on the drawing board was such that it excluded a means to enter the car if the electrical system failed. If there are broken components within the lock mechanism that jam it all up that is a different matter.
So, if I'm right why should we fear superlock? Why the need to cut that wire?
I am in the process of writing up a brief report on what I have found as I have inspected the lock components and will add this for further comment when I have completed it but that is unlikely to be for a few days now.
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re#21026
After partially dismantling the item I removed a few months ago I think that reversing polarity through the superlock might be wrong as it only seems to operate a pawl.
Exactly how it all works is still a mystery. I might start a new thread on this to avoid detracting from the original post.
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After a lot of searching etc
I am a a little suspicious and awaiting a message back from the vendor but this item suggests compatibility wit iPhone etc
eBay item number:126811475001
Might be worth “a punt” if the item on order fails.
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I don’t disagree with all the sentiments expressed as to the worthiness of the security system. All I’m saying is that the nature of that system will be asked for during the process of applying for insurance. If something is disabled it is a modification from the underwriter’s point of view and alters the “risk”.
But back to the main subject in this topic. I have today partially dismantled the item I replaced some months ago. On first inspection I can’t see anything broken etc. So if playing with the levers proves to be ineffective and the door card is “wrecked” to gain access I believe that removing the cover that secures the lock to the door would not be straightforward . It would be necessary to grind the screw heads down until they release the entire assembly.
If superlock is not engaged release through the various levers should be possible. If superlock is engaged I think it is a totally different matter. Other than knowing that the basic means to open the lock are prevented I have yet to discover how or why.
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It might be best if it is left for each to make their own investigations via Tech bulletins on the associated CDs etc.
My understanding is that the locks each have two motors. One for normal locking, and one for superlock.
Lock/unlock of either motor system is executed by reversing the current through the motor depending on selected action at the time.
As I read what I can find on this topic I get the impression that it is not necessarily the motors that fail but more the associated complexity of the mechanical components in the lock case. The micro switches themselves that detect lock position etc may be a significant contributor to that frailty.
I don’t know this but suspect that if the micro switch does not detect full closure or superlock complete then the motor might continue to run and go through a “loop” . It would be interesting if not helpful to know if anyone else has more experience with this.
Looking at the door handle I removed a while ago I have reminded myself that the associated rod is screwed into the handle mechanism pivot. That suggests some setting up is required.
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Thank you for that suggestion. I have purchased something similar. When I get the opportunity I’ll plug it in and see if it works.
Many sellers of similar items (and I can’t recall if the one shown above was one) suggested incompatibility. One needed to know the vin number to check which I declined to reveal.
The Bluetooth option seemed to be potentially ideal as a backup but most seemed to function on Android but not IOS. And again incompatibility seemed to be an issue. Not sure about this but there was a suggestion that MG rather than Rover had one pin wired differently. So again questions relating to compatibility .
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Regardless of what we think about the features included in the security system it is a standard feature.
When applying for insurance cover here in the U.K. we are usually asked a standard series of questions.
Near the top of the list is “what alarm” or other security features are included, soon followed by “what modifications” have been carried out.
So, it is important to have the perishing locks working or declare that one aspect such as “superlock” is disabled. At that point you will be directed to a broker and up goes the cost of insurance.
An insurance company will not care about any self inflicted damage caused to door cards etc whilst trying to overcome a failed superlock.
You might be able to be “economical” with the truth if the car were stolen by answering positively to the question was the car locked. The answer might be “yes” but without declaring no it was not superlocked.
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Don't disagree with that. But lets assume that after wrecking the door card you have access to the lock. If it is superlocked the mechanism prevents any movement of any of the other features as far as I can see.
So, if you cant open the door to access the three retaining screws how do you "do something" that opens the door. The only thing I can think of is to dismantle the lock so that the interlock created by the superlock can be defeated.
Or, what am I missing?
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Re reading #210209 the door may not be super-locked. If not there may still be some hope of getting it open.
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Today I have read up a bit more on this topic and am puzzled as to how the situation is to be overcome if "superlocking" has taken place.
So here is my question
Without access to the door when it is open it is not possible to remove the screws that hold the lock to the door case. Does this mean that once the door card is destroyed to get access to the lock that you have to basically dismantle the lock in-situ such that you can release the interlock that creates the "superlock"?
I ask because as I understand it once "superlock" is activated an interlock is deployed within the lock case that prevents any of the other rod mechanisms from having any effect ~ simply put they are disabled. Or is there something more obvious that I'm overlooking.
Within the case there are three microswitches, 1 to sense if the door is closed/open, 1 to sense if the system is locked or unlocked, and 1 to sense if the key has been used to lock/unlock the door. And the ECU determines whether to power the standard lock or superlock (and which way to operate the motor).
So again if the fob is not having any effect on unlocking the door and superlock has been deployed I cant see any other way of opening the door other than dismantling the lock in situ. Am I wrong? If so please explain.
My only other thought would be to turn ignition on (possibly start the engine) and disconnect the accelerometer that senses that you have run into the big tree. Then see what happens. Or could it be a weak earth? If so where?
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