EKAcode/P-Scan
I am having immobilizer problem can not get the car to start. Have tried the usual suggestions, change fob battery have done, lock car with key open with fob have done. Can I retrieve the EKA code using
a P-Scan reader which I have or is there anther way to get it. Thanks Frank
a P-Scan reader which I have or is there anther way to get it. Thanks Frank
by Fruss
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It would help us help you, if you could tell us what year the car is and which type of security system it has........ Lucas (rectangular fob) or Pektron (round fob)
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
by Cobber
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Regardless of which form of system you have I wish you luck using the EKA code. I have tried using EKA on both Lucas and Pectron systems.
I have tried using the EKA code as seen from pscan and after re setting it to a number of my choice (to make the key operations fewer).
The only thing I managed to achieve was to prove the alarm worked but didn’t let me in the car.
I have tried using the EKA code as seen from pscan and after re setting it to a number of my choice (to make the key operations fewer).
The only thing I managed to achieve was to prove the alarm worked but didn’t let me in the car.
by Delbourt
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I have a 1997 MGF VVC 1.8 Looks like a rectangular fob. It is a MEMS-2J system. Just to let you know I am not in the UK but on the extreme west coast of Canada in Victoria BC so not any help around here.
by Fruss
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You have 5AS Lucas alarm system, which is pretty robust.
Can you describe your problem in detail. What is happening?
Can you describe your problem in detail. What is happening?
Last Edit:4 weeks 1 day ago
by Roverlike
Last edit: 4 weeks 1 day ago by Roverlike.
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I went to a friends for dinner parked the car top down and came out later to go home and the car would not start. When I turned the key lights on the dash came on and a strange repeating sound was heard.
Checked for ideas on his computer and tried the lock with the key and open with the fob and tried to start the no start. Have also changed fob batteries still no start. Not sure what else I can add other than I am not into fixing modern cars, give me back my MGB
Checked for ideas on his computer and tried the lock with the key and open with the fob and tried to start the no start. Have also changed fob batteries still no start. Not sure what else I can add other than I am not into fixing modern cars, give me back my MGB
by Fruss
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So if I understand correctly you can lock yoir car with fob and unlock it with the fob, you just cannot start it?
If that is the case you do not have the problem with immobiliser. Something else is in question.
Do you hear that strange sound each time you try to start the car? Is it some form of clicking? Maybe low car battery? Problems with starter motor?
If you opened the boot while you were at your friend I would suspect that you disturbed your wires in the boot, see here: https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/roverlike-s-guides/97856-mg-f-tf-boot-hinge-lid-wiring-loom-inspection-guide
If that is the case you do not have the problem with immobiliser. Something else is in question.
Do you hear that strange sound each time you try to start the car? Is it some form of clicking? Maybe low car battery? Problems with starter motor?
If you opened the boot while you were at your friend I would suspect that you disturbed your wires in the boot, see here: https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/roverlike-s-guides/97856-mg-f-tf-boot-hinge-lid-wiring-loom-inspection-guide
Last Edit:4 weeks 1 day ago
by Roverlike
Last edit: 4 weeks 1 day ago by Roverlike.
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It is more like a wow wow sound happens some of the time when I turn the key to start it but not all the time no clicking sound. The car is about twenty minutes away from me so am going to get it recovers to a garage and let them have a go with the P-Scan reader to see if it is something else other than the immobiliser.
by Fruss
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Was not the immobiliser but the ignition wire at the starter motor coming out of the connector and hanging loose so no power getting to it. New connector and problem solved.
by Fruss
The following user(s) said Thank You: sworkscooper, TA22GT
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Sounds like a shitty crimp connector, better off soldering the terminals to the wire and using heat shrink tubing to insulate and reinforce the joint.
Those pretty red/blue/yellow insulated crimp terminals are rubbish and a never ending source of trouble. If you must crimp you're better off with the bare metal crimp terminals and using either a slip over insulating boot or heat shrink to insulate it.....better still both crimp and solder it, before insulating it!
There's no kill like overkill, to be sure you got the bastard!
Those pretty red/blue/yellow insulated crimp terminals are rubbish and a never ending source of trouble. If you must crimp you're better off with the bare metal crimp terminals and using either a slip over insulating boot or heat shrink to insulate it.....better still both crimp and solder it, before insulating it!
There's no kill like overkill, to be sure you got the bastard!
"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"
Last Edit:2 weeks 1 day ago
by Cobber
Last edit: 2 weeks 1 day ago by Cobber.
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