Fob Programming in SE London or near

bryan young wrote:
Its called SODS LAW !!!!! :shrug: :woohoo:

Agreed - let's hope he got my second text about tomorrow! LOL At least the sun was shining in Loughborough unlike the last two times I was there!

Blimey - Russell's not in my area for at least two weeks now!

OK, been having trouble tying Russell down to a date top do the fobs so .... decided to poke around inside the semi-working one.

I found that although the solder joints were all seemingly OK, on closer inspection there were 'cracks' in the solder joints holding the battery holder in place. The solder was solid on the other side of the board, but I thought I'd grab my trusty soldering iron and just re-melt the potentially dry solder joints. I also quickly re-melted the joints for the two little buttons as well for good measure!

Guess what... it worked - first time every time the fob now works! So I can wait a little longer for Russell to book me in for reprogramming!

Red arrows show where I re-melted the solder:

That's a classic fault with the fobs. The battery cage connections weaken and cause faulty operation of the fob.
Re-soldering is usually a permanent cure.:yesnod:

david aiketgate wrote: That's a classic fault with the fobs. The battery cage connections weaken and cause faulty operation of the fob.
Re-soldering is usually a permanent cure.:yesnod:

Good to know! Now just need to track Russell down to program my spare(s). I have a spare 3TXA and 17TN (although the circuit board says 3TXD which I think is correct!) - I'm guessing better to get the 17TN programmed up as it's newer? Or shall I have both done while I am at it?

I believe the 17 is more robust and less likely to have this battery cage problem but, you might as well have them all coded up.

very useful thread on fobs by TECHNOZEN

david aiketgate wrote: I believe the 17 is more robust and less likely to have this battery cage problem but, you might as well have them all coded up.

very useful thread on fobs by TECHNOZEN

Thanks David - the 3TXd/17TN I have is very different inside from the 3TXA/3TXB's - it doesn't have the little silver frequency thingy for a start!

EDIT - Just looked at your link - yep that's what mine look like! PHEW.

adamelphick wrote:

david aiketgate wrote: That's a classic fault with the fobs. The battery cage connections weaken and cause faulty operation of the fob.
Re-soldering is usually a permanent cure.:yesnod:

Good to know! Now just need to track Russell down to program my spare(s). I have a spare 3TXA and 17TN (although the circuit board says 3TXD which I think is correct!) - I'm guessing better to get the 17TN programmed up as it's newer? Or shall I have both done while I am at it?

It is not going to cost you more takes about two minutes to do, get them all coded and get him to give you the four digit EKA code too :whistle: :woohoo:

bryan young wrote: It is not going to cost you more takes about two minutes to do, get them all coded and get him to give you the four digit EKA code too :whistle: :woohoo:

Yep - definitely gonna get the EKA just in case LOL.