MGF Brake disc removal?

Well, it might have taken me about 2 weeks (I have had to grab 15 mins here, 20 mins there etc) but I finally got the new front discs on & painted the calipers.



Done a few other bits too while under there, cleaned the inside of the wing & Waxoyled, Hammerited the chassis & wishbones, painted the shockers, scrubbed & polished the wheel arch liners etc
Going to put the wheels back on now & get it on the ramps so I can do more underneath before attempting the same on the rear.

oh boy, does that look nice!

CJJ;3000 wrote:
It is worth persevering to get new screws in. Not necessary, but they prvent the disc from moving when you take the wheels off.



And you can't check for 'run out' without the screws in place to hold the disc in position.

This can be important if you need to check disc distortion causing brakling wobble or uneven pad and tyre wear.

Mike

Well its been over a month now but being the hero I am, Ive battled through a bit of Man flu, a dodgy back, struggling with asthma & a wife wanting to go shopping between picking her up from her house calls as a carer to eventually get the rear discs & calipers done (with help from CJJ & Davids guides). As the fronts, Ive also Hammerited? the metal bits & undersealed the other bits & fitted the silver bits inside that I got off ebay.




I think the inside looks cold now so I may change that again, possibly going over some of the silver items with Volcano as Kara suggested?

Next job - Finishing the underseal then soldering the speaker connections & Dynamat to the doors & fitting rear speakers......should only take me another month or so!

sheared or graunched disc retaining screws are a common problem with Fs and the discs rust like their welded to the hubs!! the screws on my car are sheared off, i have drilled them out with a 3mm, then 4mm, then 5mm drills with a slow speed drill with plenty of oil and then used a 6mm tap carefully to remove the remaining threads, by using a taper first the thread came out in bits, then ran the 6mm tap through. took about an hour per hub to do. i am going to fit stainless replacements too, preferably with a hexagonal socket head. i beleive it is important to clean the hub face properley and check the disc "run out" which cannot be done if the retaining screws are not there. Have a look at the article in January issue of MG Enthusiast about the MGF project car and brakes.
Hope this helps ~ Bryan Young

Slippy;6782 wrote: Well its been over a month now but being the hero I am, Ive battled through a bit of Man flu, a dodgy back, struggling with asthma & a wife wanting to go shopping between picking her up from her house calls as a carer to eventually get the rear discs & calipers done (with help from CJJ & Davids guides). As the fronts, Ive also Hammerited? the metal bits & undersealed the other bits & fitted the silver bits inside that I got off ebay.

I think the inside looks cold now so I may change that again, possibly going over some of the silver items with Volcano as Kara suggested?

Next job - Finishing the underseal then soldering the speaker connections & Dynamat to the doors & fitting rear speakers......should only take me another month or so!

Looking fantastic mate! Although why are your brake discs black? :confused:

Agreed the interior couldn't definitely do with some of that gorgeous volcano orange to match! I wish I could colour code my interior but green doesn't really provide as much as a contrast as orange would. Have you seen the interior of Jester's F? He's the king when it comes to colour coding your interior - thinks of places to spray that the rest of us wouldn't even think of.

Bryan Young;7110 wrote: sheared or graunched disc retaining screws are a common problem with Fs and the discs rust like their welded to the hubs!! the screws on my car are sheared off, i have drilled them out with a 3mm, then 4mm, then 5mm drills with a slow speed drill with plenty of oil and then used a 6mm tap carefully to remove the remaining threads, by using a taper first the thread came out in bits, then ran the 6mm tap through. took about an hour per hub to do. i am going to fit stainless replacements too, preferably with a hexagonal socket head. i beleive it is important to clean the hub face properley and check the disc "run out" which cannot be done if the retaining screws are not there. Have a look at the article in January issue of MG Enthusiast about the MGF project car and brakes.
Hope this helps ~ Bryan Young

Thanks Brian! Sounds like a hell of a job! I've FINALLY picked up a copy of Jan's MG Enthusiast so will try & scan the article you mentioned.

The brake discs have a anti rust coating all over them, obviously it will wear off where the pads meet the disc & will be silver underneath (like the black Diamond discs?) but should hopefully prevent the hub & edges going rusty. I dont know how long it will last though.

When funds allow I am going to get the seats, door pods & gaitors re trimmed in black & Orange leather. I already have another set of door cappings & the original speedo binnacle surround to spray Volcano. Im going to buy another centre console when one comes up cheap on ebay too then I can chop & change.

Slippy;7137 wrote: The brake discs have a anti rust coating all over them, obviously it will wear off where the pads meet the disc & will be silver underneath (like the black Diamond discs?) but should hopefully prevent the hub & edges going rusty. I dont know how long it will last though.

When funds allow I am going to get the seats, door pods & gaitors re trimmed in black & Orange leather. I already have another set of door cappings & the original speedo binnacle surround to spray Volcano. Im going to buy another centre console when one comes up cheap on ebay too then I can chop & change.

Oooh sounds stunning! Hurry up & raise those funds so we can all get jealous looking at pics!

Bryan Young;7110 wrote: sheared or graunched disc retaining screws are a common problem with Fs and the discs rust like their welded to the hubs!! the screws on my car are sheared off, i have drilled them out with a 3mm, then 4mm, then 5mm drills with a slow speed drill with plenty of oil and then used a 6mm tap carefully to remove the remaining threads, by using a taper first the thread came out in bits, then ran the 6mm tap through. took about an hour per hub to do. i am going to fit stainless replacements too, preferably with a hexagonal socket head. i beleive it is important to clean the hub face properley and check the disc "run out" which cannot be done if the retaining screws are not there. Have a look at the article in January issue of MG Enthusiast about the MGF project car and brakes.
Hope this helps ~ Bryan Young

Thats pretty much what I had to do with the fronts (drilling out & re tapping etc) as I didnt have an impact driver when I did the fronts. The rears (which looked in far worse condition) had a couple of days soaking with WD40, a good couple of whacks with the impact driver & they were off! It knackered the heads but as I fitted stainless retaining screws all round, that didnt matter.
The hub face was cleaned well with a brass wire brush on a drill & then a dremil with wire brush to get right upto the studs, finishing off with a VERY light smearing of Copper gease.

Kara;7139 wrote: Oooh sounds stunning! Hurry up & raise those funds so we can all get jealous looking at pics!

Ive got me Zorst & Hoops to get yet!!!

Slippy;7141 wrote: Ive got me Zorst & Hoops to get yet!!!

Fine I'll be patient! :prrr: