Its never that simple, it just can't be one thing

It just never is :nonod:

1) I lose my gears, trying to reverse, I drive home in stuck gear, search boards and find post describing What happened to me , . Smoke all through the cabin 200 Meters from home, assume just spilt oil on engine and I'm revving so high to get moving, damm traffic 'safety bumps'. Now realize Brakes had partially seized,
2) I order product, 1/2 price via net compared to local supply, Monday night, with delivery from Overseas, in 4 day's, Friday morning, install and still problems. Manual took twice as long to arrive :blink:
3) I determine is a partially seized brake, after seeing Brake light stuck on (rear of car), when brakes not engaged, I un-seize the brakes, so now doing a full 1/4 turn on return spring. (posts from MG-Rover forums)
4) Now I've realized that my 2 front tyres are balding down to steel bands on inside, away from line of sight. Can't change till I can drive car.
5) Gear release lever from slave cylinder, was pinned UNDER the clevis pin ( don't know how, don't know when, but we'll...) errr it worked, but shouldn't have, attach properly.
6) Bleed clutch 3 times, still not releasing properly, or engaging in gears due to clutch not being released. I can change WITHOUT engaging clutch.


:rant: AFTER ALL THAT, mind you I'm no the most mechanically minded or fastest worker. I still find can't select gears, Gear release lever doesn't seem to be moving fully, just barely. Air in system?? (bleed 4th time, and yes bonnet-Master cylinder, then slave cylinder-Engine)

But I've had gears selected AFTER the gear cable change, I couldn't get power to the Gears, fault was brakes partially seized, I think?. That's been remedied.

Brake lights are staying on, not running lights. (wheels spin by hand, slight rubbing on pads?? should be none?? Calliper carrier too tight??

Fixed 2nd screw to secure brake disk to drive flange (Causing a major :rant: , with a :sick: feeling) 1 F****n screw.

Fixed Release lever to Slave cylinder release rod with Clevis pin, not situated under clevis pin. (have since moved back as only way to get gears, now not getting)

Oh, I put release lever back the way I found it, it seems, so have to correctly fit. Is this a Seized Clutch release cylinder attached to release arm??

Sighted worn front tyres (I really want to run off road, really and truly) Hidden on inside, only sighted when lifted all 4 wheels off ground. :sick:

Thing is, car was running fine, up until I try to reverse, then blah blah blah.

OMG Ignorance is bliss, I was so happy :bust: :woohoo: but now :blink:

:welcome2:
First thing I would say is:- Breathe, and relax.

It sounds as if the clutch release arm is partially seized in the housing. Try applying a release oil where the shaft goes into the bellhousing. Work the clutch repeatedly to increase the 'travel' in the shaft.

The worn tyres on the inside suggest that the hydragas may be low. What vertical reading do you get measuring from front wheel centre to edge of wheelarch? Should be 368mm +/- 10mm.

Brake light problem is probably the switch on the pedal.. You can adjust it by gripping thelittle plastic piston and pulling :thumbsup: it downwards out of the switch housing.

Play in the wheel bearing usually means the bearing is worn. You can't take up play by tightening the big nut, you'll need to replace the bearing.
Unfortunately, unless you have access to a big hydraulic press, it's not a DIY job. :nonod:

Thanks for all the suggestions;

1) Low hydrogas- I've assumed as much, I think I may have to replace the bags as they seem to be going down too quick, will pump again, make note of date, measurements etc and monitor.

2) Seized arm. Hmm been thinking about that, I was going to take out the slave cylinder, (easy removal) and check it out. I've sprayed the housing from below yesterday, windy today, so might leave till tomorrow to remove engine access panel and spray from above with WD40 (We have that in common with British MG'ers it seems)

3) Switch on brakes...Hmm I've believe that, mats been loose and pushed all over base of petals, etc. Wheels spin freely now, still up on axle stilts, with a slight pad rubbing noise, which has been mentioned as normal.

4) Broken bearing, Hmm can't DYI :pinch: Not noticeable on wheel, only slightly on hub, but best to get now, and not have a wheel go off on its own at 100 Km's /hr on Freeway, through the front windscreen of oncoming traffic.

Thanks for all suggestions, the only pearl of wisdom I've been able to repay with is the inability to thread a replacement cable through the rubber housing for gear selection cables. As I said, you'd need to feed it through WITHOUT the threaded end crimped on, as a plastic tube within the rubber is too small in diameter to allow it through, and hand crimping would fail. As has been noted, the factory crimping failed by Rich in Vancouver.

Oh yeah, on cable, the MG parts cable, as I'm sure you've all seen, who've had a failure, is a steel wire, encased by wire cable. The cable I had made, had a 1000Kg breaking strain, but I couldn't feed it through with the threaded ends, and crimping would only fail by hand. Hey $20 AUD (A try and fail attempt at cheaper fix, in place and no removing cover plate!!!!!) V's a $175 AUD (with delivery, exchange rates etc) is a no brainier.

hi ipex, where are you? maybe someone local can help

Had another think about it, and read the other reply on the HOW TO posting, I don't want to hijack that.

The Release arm shaft being partially seized, explains a lot of the fixes (clevis pin situation) problems and partial fixes I've been able to achieve.

Such as driving with no power in gears, only having clutch partially released.

I have full movement in Slave cylinder by hand, but by pedal, only very slightly.

I'm sure I've bled correctly 3rd time, opened bled nipple, as I pulled it to full release position while pedal was on floor and closed the bleed nipple, and released clutch.

Arm only turns, slightly, bit like the brake spring, that only turned slightly, now it does a full 1/4 turn.

Yeah, good points, I'll spray it with WD 40, and have been given another spray for cleaning brakes, oil and grit that I've used from below, but will use from above as well. Move the arm by hand or pedal

On local help..Hmm BRITISH SPECIALIST mechanics, $100 AUD /hr labour cost.
No urgent need to fix to drive, and if I can do I will, but Bearing, seems I can't. Looked through manual, nothing mentioned, have to go to a specialist.

Glad you are seeing some progress on your "challenges" If you can free up the clutch arm you should be well on your way.
One thing, I would use something other than WD-40 (Water Displacement formulation #40) as it doesn't leave much behind in the way of lasting lubrication I use a product called Tri-Flow which acts as a penetrant but leaves a film of teflon behind for lubrication. It is marvellous stuff, but I don't know if it's available down under.
Good luck!

Rich in Vancouver wrote: Glad you are seeing some progress on your "challenges" If you can free up the clutch arm you should be well on your way.
One thing, I would use something other than WD-40 (Water Displacement formulation #40) as it doesn't leave much behind in the way of lasting lubrication I use a product called Tri-Flow which acts as a penetrant but leaves a film of teflon behind for lubrication. It is marvellous stuff, but I don't know if it's available down under.
Good luck!

wax oyl is another great alternative... its saved my butt lord knows how many times

Adam-Mgtf wrote: hi ipex, where are you? maybe someone local can help

Click on the location button in his post, yours shows Ohio because you haven't reset it.

Just to keep this posting updated.

I've re-attached the Gear release arm to the slave cylinder, with the clevis pin actually threaded through the Gear release arm lever.

While I was doing this, I pushed in the slave cylinder by hand, it actually went all the way in, is this fully released, I think so, from what I remember reading about the operation from the manual. Pressing on the clutch, will force the piston out, releasing the Gears from engaging, hence the name "gear release arm' :blink:

Any way, it spurted oil out when I was moving the piston in and out, and the pedals gone back to sitting on the floor once pressed.

So Now;

1) Air getting into the slave cylinder- Seems like this is gone.
2) Fluid leaking out of said cylinder- Definitely gone now.

I still need to fully work gear release arm cylinder by hand. Free it from slave cylinder piston and lubricate with spray (Bought some Lithium spray, that many seem to be positive about) and use that.

Take off Slave cylinder (easy, just undo 2 bolts, and release pipe.) and take apart and compare to manual.

Trouble is, its decided to rain for past week, and when its clear, I'm away doing volunteering, so no time during daylight.

I'll try do a write up on slave cylinder, removal, investigation, and fix (buy a new one :lol: ) but have to wait to weather clears up. Been done, excellent write up here

Nice to have an indoor garage, for some, but no such luxury for me.

When I changed my slave cylinder I disconnected the flex hose from the under car pipe and removed the slave along with the short pipe attached to it and the flex hose as a unit. I found it much easier to work on the fitting in front of my face under the car than to thread them together at arm's length in the engine compartment. This also helped me find that not only was the flex hose perished but some useless git had bu**ered the pipe fittings as well resulting in my having to replace the pipes from the master to the slave. On the bright side the system works very well now! :pinch:

BTW: I feel your pain. I only have a carport to work in...without the balmy Australian weather!