Its never that simple, it just can't be one thing

I've taken 2 photos, well more, but these 2 seem the best.

Clutch out, so fully released

2nd one with Clutch in, so clutch engaged (congrats to it)



Just had a thought, I fitted the push rod, BEFORE I re-fitted the slave cylinder, but I doubt this is causing problem, or could it???.

I mean, it has a spring inside to stop it being compressed, so would it be of benefit to pull rod out and refit again. Or do I have a partially seized gear selection rod

I've finally decided to remove the clutch, WITHOUT removing the sub frame.

I thought about a how to, but I'm not really that mechanically minded, confident or quick. I may just do some high lights of what I've done, with links to others better presented.

I've gotten as far as removing the drive shafts from the clutch. I've just drained the clutch fluid, lucky I took it slow, I was going to drain the sump.... :nonod: :rant:

Oh yeah, thanks to CJJ for mentioning that a 1/4 socket connector fits, like a glove, lovely to have something on hand that was actually suitable.

It's fairly straight forward to this point, undo bolts, screws etc. I have 1 of the 2 bolts for the Starter motor stuck fast, I'm hoping it'll come lose once I drain the hydro fluid on the passenger side. sprayed repeatedly with CRC or Nylon, both say loosen, anti rust, lubricate etc.

Hardest part is finding the bolts, etc.

Decided I'm going to install the spring suspension kit as well at the same time, so draining hydro fluid is required, just waiting to utilize the 55 Day's int free on Credit card, 14 day's to go, which will nicely Aline with my income.

I'll do a quick note on draining the Hydra-gas fluid out, as I was very unsure, but now I've got it thanks to Village on MG Forums

Pics and all. :omg: :thumbsup:

how to here - http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=254468

Just to show I'm actually moving ahead, slowly granted.

1st I purchased the coil spring kit



Instructions are very helpful.

fitted the 2 rear coil springs,



20 mm is the recommended height to use.

Here's some adjustment to that.



and finally with it all back and connected



Looks nice, I must say.

Enough of that, onto the gear housing or bell housing as its called. ding a ling.

I've finally gave up trying to maneuver out and just propped it up.



Gives a bit more room and MUCH MORE SECURITY. Its suddenly fallen down once already.

Trouble is now, the 6 bolts holding the clutch housing to the pressure plate, seem to have been seized on, or glued on. I can't get them undone, all I'm doing now is just rounding the nut heads.

Silly question time, but its anti clock wise to undo, ie turns from 6 at bottom to 12 passing through 3.

25 Nm my **** more like 250 Nm

Using a 6 sided hex (spell) :broon: socket set, etc.