Its never that simple, it just can't be one thing

If its an early F your clutch may have a damper disc near the clutch master cylinder they can be a real pain to bleed properly, easiest way is get a Guderson power bleeder about £20 an fits the clutch filler

or bleed it rite through the disc before bleeding at the back

rough luck wrote: If its an early F your clutch may have a damper disc near the clutch master cylinder they can be a real pain to bleed properly, easiest way is get a Guderson power bleeder about £20 an fits the clutch filler

or bleed it rite through the disc before bleeding at the back

What's a Guderson? I use a Gunson one man bleeding kit that works well on clutch and brake systems.

The Gunson kit has a tank for new fluid which is pushed under air pressure (from the spare tyre) into the master cylinder and pipe work when the bleed nipple is slackened and why it's such a handy device for DIY one man operation.

John's right about the cars fitted with a clutch damper being a PITA - despite using the Gunson.
This method worked for me:

1. Charge the Gunson with new fluid and connect it to the master cylinder and spare tyre.
2. Slacken the pipe connector at the damper unit that comes from the clutch master - until fluid comes out, then retigten.
3. Repeat with the pipe connector going to the clutch slave.
4. Now you've no air in the clutch damper.
5. Go on to bleed the slave cylinder.

Tip:
Be aware that clutch fluid strips paint - wiggle some some plastic sheet (from a milk carton) under the clutch damper to divert lost fluid onto absorbent rags.

HTH Jeff

By the way, the clutch damper physically gets in the way if you are removing the wiper motor and mechanism complete. There are two 8mm bolts holding it to a mounting plate. One is in a slot. Slacken both and the damper will be able to twist a few mm in that slot - just enough to let the wiper assembly come free. No need to slacken or disconnect any hydraulic pipe work if you are careful.

As long as we're talking Gunsons let me tell my cautionary tale :ohmy:
When Gunson's say to keep the air pressure below 20psi pay attention!
A couple of years ago I was bleeding the brakes on my TR7 and I didn't
have a spare tire with air in it to pressurise the system. Of course the front
wheel was right there, and not wanting to take the wheel off and up to the local garage to refill it later
I didn't bother lowering the tire pressure to the recommended 10-20PSI.
Big Mistake! I hooked up the hose and heard a "POP" as the master cylinder
tank blew apart. A cloud of vaporised brake fluid rose into the air then settled onto the car.
Luckily there was a hose handy and I was able to wash down the car before the paint was
destroyed but it was a scare!
So.....Mind the pressure! :broon:

BTW: Has anyone been able to modify a cap to use the Gunson with the MGF master cylinder?

its not a good idea to use gunsons,seen too many accidents,brake fluid in nasty stuff,too much pressure and bang,you can get some vacum brake bleeding kits ,they simply suck the fluid,far safer and thats how many dealers do it,

Funny but I have never had any luck with vacuum bleeders.
As long as you keep the pressure where it belongs with the Gunson
there are no problems...at least there haven't been for me.
You don't have to hear the wife complain about getting cramps in her pumping leg either! :lol:

I've been told that getting the clutch bled can be difficult and it was for me. I tried vacuum bleeding the clutch just a few days ago, didn't work for me. I made my own pressure bleeder and it was the only way I could get the clutch bled. One moment there was no resistance at the clutch pedal and then it was as had as a rock.

When I changed the clutch fluid I had to release the line connector at the master cylinder to expel air, and also push and pull the pedal up and down manually to get the fluid through. :yesnod:

Just to keep my saga updated, I've removed the slave cylinder and investigated it. It had a leaking dust seal, that was letting in the air,

Here's a photo of the old dust seal and the replacement fitted.



The Needle nose Pliers are in the broken part of the seal, you can see the small break in the seal, right where it fits into the groove in the push rod, enough to let in the air. :whistle:

I've yet to fit this, been struck down with a slight bought of stomach flu or mild Gastroenteritis combined with my volunteering, travel, and weather, I just don't have time or inclination to fit. That and I'm lazy, slow, and just so tired lately.

BUT, fit this back, bleed air out of system, spray the brakes with the lithium spray, and work the Gear selection lever (probably 1st thing to do) it should be all up and running again. :broon:

Assuming it so, next project will be fitting a glass rear screen, my 2nd plastic screen has gained a 2nd tear in the plastic, and tape won't hold it now. I assume cost will only be..ONLY... a couple hundred AUD $'s , YEAH why not. :omg:

Seen a video on how to fit,http://www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/54-how-tos/21787-fitting-glass-screen-panel
, seems easy enough, even I could do it in 30 minutes, double his time. :woohoo:

My glass screen took me about an hour and I took my time, referring back to the video a couple of times.
If I was to do another one it would take me half that. It's a relief to do a simple job on an MGF for once!

It's also great to be able to do a job(40 mins for me) that makes such a difference to rear vis; to ease of dropping the hood; and an electric demister. :broon: :broon: :broon:

Umm, the dust seal is just that, a dust seal. Its the seal on the plunger that keeps the fluid in and the air out that is important to the operation of the slave cylinder, not the dust seal. If this seal has failed then you would find fluid behind the dust seal.

OK I'm not the fastest worker, most confident or motivated.

I think I have an idea of what the problem is, 2 fold.

1) ME..Just lazy and not confident.

2) I think the clutch needs to be removed and renewed. :sick:

Question on the release arm, how far should it move with the slave cylinder pushing on it, mine moves about 2 Cm's in an arc, or about 10 Degrees on Arc. Is this far enough???

I've had it working previously, but no power to drive, it sounds like the clutch, from what I've read, here, at MG forums, etc.

Bah, all things wear out, even I do... :oops: