Gear selector cable any tips?

Hi all,
After suffering a frustratingly notchy gear change, ESP into 2nd and a very sloppy box, my lower gear cable snapped last night.

Have had a look at the how too's on here and it looks a pig of a job, ESP in winter with cold fingers.. This one is gonna hurt and not just in the wallet.

So any tips?

One thought is to drop the subframe to make access easier? Or is that an absolute knuckle cruncher to do too?

Finally if anyone has paid to have the cables replaced, how much did it sting? (cost)

Peterpiper wrote: Hi all,
After suffering a frustratingly notchy gear change, ESP into 2nd and a very sloppy box, my lower gear cable snapped last night.

Have had a look at the how too's on here and it looks a pig of a job, ESP in winter with cold fingers.. This one is gonna hurt and not just in the wallet.

So any tips?

One thought is to drop the subframe to make access easier? Or is that an absolute knuckle cruncher to do too?

Finally if anyone has paid to have the cables replaced, how much did it sting? (cost)

As you have found, I don't doubt, it is the closure plate that makes the job into a nightmare. I would try to remove those bolts I could get at and knock the heads off the ones I couldn't with a cold chisel.

Undoubtedly, the job is easy with the subframe dropped, however that presumes that the subframe bolts will come out. In reality, very few manage without a snapped bolt.

Where are you? Maybe one of the mobile mechanics would take it on. Russell (MGR Solutions) or Jon Norris.

edit Ah, just seen Merseyside area. Try Russell, he has relatives in Chester.

If you can find someone to do the job for a couple of hundred pounds do it!
It is no fun at all in the summer and would be torture in the winter.
Another thing to consider is it is one of those jobs that gets easier and quicker each time you do it
so by getting a pro to do it you can take advantage of his experience without suffering to get any of your own!

Hi all,
would echo :broon: If your in daubt ... leave it out, errr .... let it do someone else :thumbsup:

Anyway, I've done it several years ago with slightly lowered subframe. Just so less lowered to get access to the hidden bolt of the closure plate and no hurt to the water hoses. This space you get is also nice to have for removing the plate without damage.

Also take care. From what I read in the last few weeks the original lower cable is nearly impossible to get.
Reports in forums talked about three new options.
- MG TF cable including the TF fixture bracket and TF gear bracket (TF cable is shorter then the F cable)
- Portland Trading Enterprises Ltd. replacement cable.
- new original cable as sold by Rimmer and other.
The last one seams to be much thicker then the old original. It doesn't fit straight into the assembly with the old closure plate and gasket. The gasket on the cable itself is missing aswell on the new cable and obviously aswell on the Portland part.

This is all not proven, just only reflecting what I read in other forums. So ask the sellers what you will get before you buy.

I used the Portland Trading cable (I think Rich did likewise) and that's a straight replacement :yesnod:

It's the closure plate that is the real problem. I managed to remove 3 bolts without dropping the subframe but the bottom 2 had to be chiseled off and even then the backplate was a pig to get off :nonod:

Eventually had to 'encourage' it a bit to get the broken cable out, which bent the bottom of the plate which made getting it back on another mission :rant:

However, I was quoted £400, so saved over £300 doing it myself. Not sure if that was worth it or not, even though it's a substantial amount of money.

Also you MUST replace the retaining spring that fits on the gear cable collar at the engine end and make sure it's on correctly (make a note of how the old one is fitted before removing). Otherwise you'll find yourself without gears if it works loose, as I found out the hard way :oops:

Rimmers stocks replacement closure plates-cheap! Both parts of the plate are included. The only catch is to replace the lower plate you need to disconnect the heater hoses. You can replace the outer plate easily though without touching the hoses. Use stainless bolts!
After the failure of my Portland Trading crossgate cable (the long one) I hunted down an NOS early factory cable on E-Bay.
I am hoping that the bodged Portland cable holds together until the spring when I plan to replace the cable, closure plate and install my new silicone hose set all at once.

Do it yourself, its not that hard. The hardest part is getting access to the closing plate.

Be ready for plenty of leaning over and into the engine access panel.

You need to buy the cable, with insulation, casing and all, fitting a new cable only through the threading and crimping yourself, ISN'T an option. (I've tried and failed)

Hardest part is really understanding what your doing and how to do it. (that's me though)

I purchased the Rimmer Bros version of the cable, very happy with quaility, delivery (all the way to Oz Via tornado :bust: ) and NO WICKED WITCH interference.

Doing it yourself, allow 2 day's, take it easy and try it yourself

Thank you very much peeps. :thumbsup:

Decided pretty much to go down the garage route..
Not easy as two garages tried so far said no point blank.. Which inspires confidence that when I do find someone they will bodge it..
Sent Russell a message so hope there poss.
Anyone know of a good garage in south Liverpool?

Peterpiper wrote: Thank you very much peeps. :thumbsup:

Decided pretty much to go down the garage route..
Not easy as two garages tried so far said no point blank.. Which inspires confidence that when I do find someone they will bodge it..
Sent Russell a message so hope there poss.
Anyone know of a good garage in south Liverpool?

Also contact Jon Norris (Rough Luck Racing) on this forum, he lives in Rutland and travels like Russell (they are friends and sometimes share MG work) both are very good. :thumbsup:

Doing the gear cables is a bit like a rubics cube you either love it or hate it

I don't really have a problem getting the plate off, old cable out, new one in........the art is getting the plate back on again

It becomes a mission of this plate is NOT winning the war

Thanks everyone for advise etc

Russell got back to me with a quote and i procrastinated and prevaricated over what to do.. shall i do it, let Russel do it..etc etc

However despite mild weather, the thought of me or anyone else lying on the drive, under the car swearing etc in all weathers tipped me into booking it into a local garage,
So hopefully will be back on four wheels by the weekend.

Can i just say thanks to Russell for being up for the job, even though he knows how nasty a job it was. Top sport.!!

Hope it goes well. :yesnod: