Wocha bin doin on your MG this week then?

Let's see so far this week:-

Fitted S/S under floor pipes
New coolant (see above)
Oil and Filter change
Removed MPi air filter box and bracket.
Fitted TF 135 air fitler bracket
Repaired a broken wire by boot hinge.
Changed rear discs
Cleaned and paint caliper carriers
Cleaned and painted calipers
Am about to go down to ECP for a set of rear Pagid pads.

Still to do:-

Fit new rear pads
Change front rubber flex hoses for new HEL Yellow PVC sleeved braided Stainless hoses.
Clean and paint front calipers
Fill braking system then bleed

Plezier wrote:

David Aiketgate wrote: It's what you're used to I suppose.:shrug:
In comparison to the Nexen 6000, the Event tyres were lacking.
Interestingly now that I've had a good play with the car on wet roads the Nexen 6000 on the rear seem to be likely to give up before the Uniroyals on the front!

David,

The Events are on the rear fronts are Runway Enduro 916's that were one the project VVC when I bought her. I am running the 16" LE Multispoke wheels (75th Anni/Freestyle type) so have never had her on "Good" tyres and I don't hang about when the chance comes.. Once we gett the rest sorted out and one set of these wheels refurbished then we shall be on the hunt for new tyres.

I too am on the multispoke 16s. I have always been happy with the grip of the Nexens and when 'playing', corner with the expectation of that level of grip. I found the Event tyres on the front went 'light' when trying to take the same corner at the same speed.

I'm willing to admit I may have got a little carried away using words like 'abysmal' to describe the tyres, rather I should have stuck to factual descriptions as above. The Events are not bad tyres, they just had less grip than what I was accustomed to. I have always lauded the Nexen 6000 and the 3000 before it. The level of grip in most conditions was very good especially considering they are also a budget tyre.( about £60 fitted/balanced for a 215/40-16)
Having now experienced the Uniroyal Rainsport 2s ( £75 for the 215/40-16 fitted/balanced), I can say that they have more grip than the Nexens and will switch to Uniroyals all round when the rears need replacing. (Assuming that they give reasonable mileage) They also have the popular V groove tread pattern! :woowoo:

The low mileage returns of the popular Toyos has always put me off using them.

I think the important lesson is to know the limits of your particular tyres and drive accordingly.

For £60 a corner the Nexens are excellent value for money, (actually only a couple of pounds more than the Events) and I will continue to recommend them as budget tyre of choice.

The thing is Daviod that I have not bought any tyres for the MGF's ................................................................. yet. Am only using what came on the car or wheels.

I also expect that renewing the lower arm bushes including the compliance bushes have helped "Elsie" in the handling department. Fitted new shocks to "Blue 33" today so it will be interesting to see how the improve things. Plan on checking and replacing bushes on her too in the not too distant future. She will need tyres before long but is on 15" Five spoke VVC rims.

Hi, dropped the front subframe today. Went quite well considering I only have a drive, a jack and two axle stands. One rear mounting bolt rounded but a hammered on socket got that. Snapped one other rear bolt so I guess I'm drilling that and fitting a nut and bolt.

john and Jake the dog wrote: Hi, dropped the front subframe today. Went quite well considering I only have a drive, a jack and two axle stands. One rear mounting bolt rounded but a hammered on socket got that. Snapped one other rear bolt so I guess I'm drilling that and fitting a nut and bolt.

If your drilling then drill smaller and then re-tap or use an "Eazi" out with lots of porper penetrating fluid. I had to to three on the project VVC but managed to get all those undone on "Elsie's" rear monnts on the front sub frame when fitting new mounts. I see some one has drilled and put a bolt through at least one of the rear sub frame front mounts ......................... bodgers Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Drill size for the 8mm tap is 6.8mm. I used a proper centre drill (No3) to start the drillling in the correct spot (centre of bolt) then a small 3mm ( about an 1/8") as a pilot hole then opened it up to accept the eazi out.

Really it's not as difficult and many make out. have also drilled out all the broken disc retaining counter sunk screws and re-tapped the holes 6mm for new screws. The replacement used front sub frame that I re-furbished had three broken screws in the front hubs.

Sort of half way through my engine rebuild, rear subframe refurb and suspension repaint, plus a renewal of the rear brake lines and general tidy of the engine bay, it has been delayed due to domestic issues, but i will have to crack on and finish it soon

This week I are been mostly buying one!!

Finally got round to fitting my upgraded alternator belt tensioner from MGMania this afternoon. Much better than the original IMHO.

If anyone wants the original bracket for any reason they can have it foc, though I've left the adjusting screw on the alternator so would have to get underneath to retrieve that if that was also required.

Also waterproofed the hood with Fabsil ready for the winter.

New discs and pads are going on the front on the weekend and all my blue led interior and dash lights have turned up so will probably get all them changed over aswell

So far.......

Fitted mk2 centre consol
Shortened gear stick
Fitted rear speaker bar

In process of modding a 48mm alloy tb.

Still got loads to do but got loads of time to do it in :broon:

Finally got under the MG today to sort out my slowly worsening exhaust blow. I was expecting to see a hole or split in any one of the exhaust components, but no everything seemed fine and intact. The blow seemed to be coming from top of the system, so off with the inspection cover (what a b@stard job that is, but that's another story!).
It turns out that out of the 5 manifold studs, the bottom 2 had disappeared, the top middle 1 could be unscrewed by hand and the 2 top outer ones weren't exactly tight!
Luckily I found 2 bolts that were exactly the right length and with a couple of spring washers managed to fix the problem! :woohoo:
Need to source some proper replacements and manifold gasket to do the job proper! :broon:

This weekend I started the slam panel modification to fit my new alloy rad (with wrong mounting point width!). Cut the passenger side mount hole 2cm to the left and cut a new plate to fit the remaining 'old hole'. Welded the replacement piece in and then ground down the welds - amazingly looks OK! Popped some primer on it and went back indoors to warm up! LOL

I'll get some pictures in the week....

Also bought some new twin tip Denzo spark plugs and am about to get a couple of new coils to see if that will help with the lumpy tick over. I don't think its the leads as I swapped to a couple of F leads I had temporarily and it made no difference.