timing belt change

Talking to a mechanic who does cambelts on a regular basis and occasionally on mgf/tf..said he never uses the locking crank tool and undoes the crank bolt using a impact gun....but I prefer to use the tools shown above.

The first time I did the cam belt I also did not use the crank locking tool.

I needed to do it again 4 months later! :oops:



Used an impact gun to tighten.

Now I always use the tool :broon:

Much easier to torque up correctly with a torque wrench.

How does your mechanic friend torque the bolt back up using an impact gun?

I have the draper K16 it's the other one I need for locking the flywheel, I will get one after Christmas, and then with all your advice get stuck in, thanks.

The mechanic wasn't a friend..but he worked on our works vans..so often heard of his tales..hence why I bought a locking tool pronto. .maybe he had someone lock the flywheel using a flat edge in the flywheel ring gear...yes feeding the belt through without removing the mounts complete requires lowering the engine...has it is suspended like this....

You can see in the photo the 2 bolts loose and the gap appearing..make sure there's no dirt around mount or you will contaminate the belt
Observe the torque settings and do it has I did ...correct tools all the time..little torque wrench for the tentioner bolt..and observe the way the belt is fed back on..in a anti clockwise position starting from the crank pulley
Keeping the belt tight so not to skip a tooth...a white tippex marker pen is always handy to highlight you timing marks..rotate the engine a couple of times by hand checking the marks are correct is the thing to do before turning the key...I printed the relevant info from my manual and took it into the garage..and followed it to the book apart from reusing the tensioner bolt..which I mentioned before had loctite reapplied...the auto tentioner is easy to understand.

You don't need to put both sides of the car on jack stands, just the driver's side high enough to get the wheel off. And a floor jack with or without a piece of wood for the sump lowering.

Those two bolts for the end mount that bluestreak should can be a... female dog to loosen if dissimilar metal corrosion has taken place. Do replace those bolts because there is a good chance you will damage the bolt head removing them; they are supposed to be replacement items as per the manual.

G0RSQ's picture of the belt coming off was probably due to the very shallow keyway in the crank gear being misaligned with the notch in the crank pulley; a very common problem. It happened to me and the belt came off due to the crank bolt coming loose, even though it was tightened to the correct torque setting. Be very, very careful to ensure that the keyway on the crank gear and pulley are aligned while you are hand tightening the crank bolt.

Good information there keep this thread rolling..the knowledge gained is fantastic...renewing bolts is something we have learnt at work is important but in the case of our mgtf/mgf..where is the best place to source new bolts...The bolts were tight and I used a 3/4 drive ratchet....I always use hexagon sockets to limit any slip.on hexagon heads that is of course.

Just checking my records ...and I changed my cambelt 10,000 miles ago and it ain't fell off nor have I got any misalignment with any mating gears or pulleys...must have done something correct..hey...all those pounds I saved..well went into the tank as petrol and I bloody enjoyed driving around on it...A bonus building engines for a living..just get them in your blood and crave input..

Here's a good piece of advise,
Before you start, that is, if you are removing the engine mounting bracket in front of the timing belt cover, give the two bolts a soak with penetrating oil for a few days before.
When mine was done earlier this year, the bolts were solid and the engine mount arm had to be removed and another fitted. Consequently the large rubber mounting bush that the arm sits on to the rear also disintegrated after being disturbed.
Had to replace that too. Looking back at the records my timing belt was far overdue being done 7 years previous, so I was anxious to replace it.
I was fortunate that I took it to Dave and Kayleigh's at Derby, as they had a spare rear subframe with an arm and a spare mount on a scrap ZR that was the same. Took 7 hours to do the full job though.
I only took it there instead of them coming to me as it was raining. I have a good selection of tools and equipment, but I did not have the gear to do this job.
So before you do the belt, just check the bolts are not seized. If they snap off, then its a new arm!

Sundance

Great advice Sundance. ..this winter I'm going to check that rubber bush..

I will check the coned mounting bush and all tortion bushes.

Talking about tight bolts...got this beauty in my tool box...it's a torque multiplier...it multiplies the input you put in for those mega bolts..and undoes hgv wheels with small power bar instead of mauling yourself

It's got a 5:1 ratio tried it on some hgv engines..after torque up...the angle torque required after require some serious pulling on large power bars...but this makes the job a doddle.

how can I get one of these.thanks