The current question

The current question was created by Airportable

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184143
Does anyone know what the quiescent current for the both the f & tf please. I know that the electronics shuts down in stages so the final reading should be taken after several minutes, but what value is that final reading?

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Replied by BruceTF135 on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184144
I measured it on my TF a while ago but can't remember the exact figure. It was tens of milliamps but it depends on whether the alarm is set or not. Somebody will know the correct value, no doubt.

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Replied by Rickster1977 on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184151
Generally as a 25 year serving mechanic I’ve always looked for anything around the 0.05amp range.
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Replied by Airportable on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184152
Thanks for that, the f reads higher than the tf but within 10ma, which is bugger all within this context.

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Replied by David Aiketgate on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184165
Yes, I would expect something below 0.1amp. Normally residual current is measured to track battery drain.

The usual problem, excluding interior bulbs not switching off, is the relay that controls the staged power down not powering down properly. Hence the current stays at a higher level, flattening the battery.

FOR GENERAL INFO
There is a problem in measuring the residual current accurately, as any interruption in the battery circuit allows the relay to reset and so you will you get a low reading. For those unaware of this, they can get an acceptable residual current reading and miss the root cause of the battery drain.

Those in the know make sure the test meter is in place and connected before interrupting the battery circuit.

David
:shrug:

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Replied by Airportable on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184173
Thanks David, I have a little rig connected to my meter that I put in circuit prior to disconnecting & as it's easiest to get to the negative terminal it's optimised for that.

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Replied by G0RSQ on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184175
The way I do it is to remove the negative battery terminal.

Connect my meter between the battery -ve and ground in mA range.

Connect a jump cable between battery -ve and ground, which effectively shorts out the meter

I can then start the car without risk to the meter.

Turn ignition off as normal, then I quickly remove the jump lead, leaving just the mater in circuit to read mA drawn

This simulates what is actually happening when you turn off the car, and I can watch the mA drawn as the car shuts down its electonics.

Remember do not start car with just mA meter in place
by G0RSQ
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Replied by SundanceUK on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184177
I seem to remember measuring my TF a few years back and think the reading I got was .043mA. This was with a calibrated DC clip on ammeter.
I may have another go tomorrow, since I have a different head unit fitted, and my TF drained a brand new battery enough to prevent it starting in just a week of standing idle. I must admit to not driving it much of late anyhow, and my commute to work is just 2.5.miles.

Sundance

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Replied by G0RSQ on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184186

SundanceUK wrote: I seem to remember measuring my TF a few years back and think the reading I got was .043mA.

Sundance


WHAT 43uA????

Thats less than my watch :P

I presume you mean 0.043A or 43mA :broon:
by G0RSQ

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Replied by SundanceUK on topic The current question

Posted 6 years 8 months ago #184203
Yes, 43mA, forgive my blond moment, I did write it while downing a bottle of JD. That is 0.043A or 43mA.
I will check again when I can be bothered to scrape off the ice...

Sundance

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