Seized rear callipers

Well I know the syptoms and yes when I jacked up my MGTF 160 lo and behold both rear discs were tight with the handbrake off (and the light had been flashing on and off when driven which was the clue).

So after looking through the how to guides I set to work. First remove the 2 No. calliper slide bolts (12mm) they say.... Well over the last two evenings I've tried! The d..m things are set solid and I'm starting to round off the bolts even with a decent 6 sided socket. I've soaked the area in release oil and still no go.

I presume the thread is in the actual pad carrier part? I've eased back the rubber boots and got release oil spray in at both ends. I can't use heat as I'll fry the rubber boots.

Any bright ideas out there? The weather's really nice down here in Somerset and the car's sat on the drive with a wheel off (and the other to do yet ...grrrr..)

Have you diagnosed if it's the slider that is stuck ? I have rarely found the slider to be the problem as it is usually the caliper pistons that end up being corroded and as such won't release the pressure on the disc .

John

The problem is I can't really start checking exactly what is the issue 'cos I can't split the caliper. It's undoing those first two 12mm bolts that is creating the issue. Once those are out I can see if it's a seized handbrake or a sticking piston. So any tricks as to get it apart would be welcome!

Tricks of the trade are to use a special type of socket...you can pick them up from a good tool shop or ebay..price varies on quality....I had to use them on mine and I bought new bolts when refitting ..picture of the sockets below.


No mechanics tool kit is complete without these...I went for the irwin brand because I use them on a daily basis.I also ended up buying recon calipers

Well I like the look of those! I'll track down a set -here in Minehead the outlets are a bit thin on the ground.... Ebay here I come.

Many thanks - I thought the answer would be here somewhere

It's often easier to remove the carrier to hub bolts. If I recall correctly they are 17mm head.:shrug:

The Irwin bolt removers work but mangle the bolt head. There are also another type of socket called 'flat drive' sockets that grip the flats of the bolt head rather than the corners. I got a set from machine mart. Never been beaten by a bolt since!

Flat drive sockets linky

I wouldn't worry about using heat, if the callipers are that buggered, you'd be replacing all the rubber bits anyway.
In fact, you'd probably be better off replacing the calipers and bolts.

He already mentioned using 6 point sockets...then again if they are cheapo worn ones then they have damaged the head from the start. ..so mangling bolts that are stubborn are the last of your worries...chuck the bolts and get some new...we talking about brakes not window wipers..it also depends on who fitted those brakes...I've seen people use cheap sockets made of monkey metal round a bolt as they fit it...and the next to realize that is the poor person removing it ..loctite muppets are everywhere...seen new Apr entices tighten bolts with there worn sockets and wrong grade loctite and wrong torque..and my irwin sockets removed the wrong doing where no other type will even sniff it .if you want heat on those bolts fly the tf to Cobber I bet it's hot over is side of the world

Well thanks for all the responses. I've decided to take the following route: I've ordered the socket set suggested by David - the flat side socket I tried was one I found rattling around in the tool box from who knows where so as mgtfbluestreak says it could be rubbish. A full set of decent flat drive sockets will complement the bi-hex set I have anyway. If that fails then I have tracked down the irwin bolt killers for the next stage as it'll be a caliper change I guess.

The Irwin socket sets are purely to remove rounded bolts and I can personally say they are very good and always had them (and still do ) when I worked for a living . Obviously removal of the entire caliper would be better bet for a complete overhaul which is what sounds like could be on the cards .

HI, yes looking over the whole caliper and re-furbing if needed was my original intention but the whole process had stalled at the first hurdle.