Replace HG and oil rail, Yes or No

I have just bought a low mileage 160 VVC engine (pre PRT one) which has already had its head gasket replaced, I presume a multi shim one but will not know until I collect it. The question is do I replace it and fit the new lower oil rail or fit and forget? At the moment the engine has no problems and the VVC is quiet. I will fit all new belts, clutch etc. All guidance appreciated

If you do not experiance problems I would not touch it. There is no fit and forget option. Car needs to be maintained and looked after, but that goes as symptoms start to appear.

I owned an MGZR and when the gasket failed I did replace the oil rail as that was recommended then as it was said that the uprated rail was stiffer. Since that my TF has had the gasket replaced and I didn't bother with the rail and its been fine . It was an expensive lump to replace when I owned the ZR but I now see the price has come down quite a bit .

Don't mess with success, if it works fine, I suggest you leave the bloody thing alone.......why tempt fate!

Since I am advised to leave well alone my next question is which brand clutch? The three brands that seem worthy of consideration are AP, LUK and XParts any preference as to which one? In the past I have used both AP and LUK on other vehicles and presume the X Parts one could be either.

I installed an 'OEM' clutch from Rimmer back in 2018, it was a LUK brand clutch. Its been working very well since it was installed.

If you are installing a clutch, I'd recommend replacing the clutch lever with one with a grease nipple at the same time.

The mobile mechanics use Borg & Beck clutches as I believe these were OEM, If you are replacing the clutch its a good idea to replace the operating lever for one with a grease nipple, Mike Satur sells them

Borg and Beck are now part of Firstline and have been for sixteen years. Mobiles use them because they are cheap but a known name I don't know if the quality is what it was though. LUK are remanufactured and that might mean more stringent checks on the core unit prior to reprocessing so yer pays yer money etc. Either way, the improved operating shaft looks like a good idea. I have wondered if the gearbox casing could be safely drilled to fit a greasing point at each end of the shaftinto which a small amount of white grease could be pumped.

At the moment I am thinking of the AP one, due to a bulk buy they are nearly as cheap as the B&B
I have not looked to see if the clutch shaft is hardened, if not I might try drilling a 2mm hole up the shaft and then cross drilling for the grease to exit. A M6 grease nipple on the end and you are done. If it’s hardened then I will look at Mike Satur’s ready made solution.

I have had a quick look and have found that the modified clutch arm with a grease nipple is just £28 from MGMania inc postage. Not worth messing with the original when you can buy a new one for that little.

I think the Mike Satur one is stainless steel, i dont know if the OEM clutch operating shaft is hardened, I doubt it especially as MGR couldn't bother installing a bush in the gearbox casing.

Actually, there are two bushes in the gearbox that the clutch shaft rotates on, UNM100010. I only replaced the top bush when I changed the clutch shaft, my access was extremely limited, only about 15cm between the gearbox and the engine, not enough room to get to the lower bush.