When I put my Torx bolt back in I used Loctite, not only does it prevent it undoing it also prevents corrosion. I had to get those locknuts very hot with a MAP torch even when the arm was securely held in the vice. In case you didn’t know the ball joint on the outside is from a Mondeo, fairly certain from a MK3 but it is obvious when you look at one.
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I don’t mean to take this thread off topic but since Roverlike posted the following;
”in case of second half of 2003 onwards MGTF is equipped with Pektron BCU. That unit is paired with engine ECU or Engine Management System. Remote fobs are paired with BCU. All of that can be done woth PScan. However do not forget you need barcode with remote fob if you want to pair it with Pektron
BCU”
I presume the link to the ECU is to cut the power supply or earth so the engine won’t start?
If so could you retain the immobiliser with an aftermarket ECU?
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I have always fitted the premium Bosch wiper blades and never had any noise. However they needed replacement on my go to work car and I bought a replacement set of Michelin wiper blades which were awfully noisy. I took them off and replaced them with the Bosch ones and total silence. I have never fitted the cheaper Bosch blades and I don’t remember what the premium ones are called. However someone that I worked with swore by cheap silicone blades.
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A few years ago before I got the TF there was a feature about the reverse light switch on the F/TF in the MGOC magazine. These reverse switches were deemed unreliable and IIRC the common cause of failure was oil leaking past the seal and contaminating the terminals, I don't remember if the oil caused the contacts to stick or whether it conducted the power. The person who wrote the article .tested the switches from a number of suppliers and found that the majority were the same switch in different colour boxes but there were a couple of much better quality ones. I think that the MGOC supplied the better one, well they would wouldn't they20.png
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When buying rotary wire brushes its worth noting the difference between a normal type and the 'knotted wire' one. The latter are much more fierce, for heavier duty work, than the normal ones. If in doubt start with a normal one.
Screwfix sell a very nice 6" wire wheel that fits a 9" angle grinder, these are particularly good in that the wires are soft but the far greater control of the larger angle grinder make it far safer to use.
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I am fitting a Jaguar V6 engine into our MGB and hopefully will be sorting out a wiring loom after Xmas, since you have no need for the existing O2 sensors your new wideband sensor can be fitted in the existing position before the catalytic convertor. A common solution to the MAP sensor is this one; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391781615269
The calibration data is available on the internet, Speeding Parts based in Sweden list the calibration date on their website, they are reasonably priced and ship quickly
These are used by many aftermarket ECU manufacturers and only need a 4mm pipe to the manifold. Although I am not brave enough many people have drilled and tapped a manifold by keeping the drill bit and tap heavily coated with grease to catch the swarf. Coincidently my heavily modified Ford manifold is off to be TIG welded today
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Although only eighteen months or so ago when I replaced those heater hoses on our TF I am sure it is an engine out job. On ours those spring hose clips were well inside the “tunnel”. As Airportable says those screws retaining the cover plates are hell on earth to remove. I am sure that you can only use the spring type of hose clip due to the very limited access.
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Did you just put the bitumastic pad on there or did you add a bit more sound insulation? If not try some closed cell foam, I used to get loads of it from work, because it was so cheap loads got thrown into the skips. There is one variant that is used under laminate flooring that's about 8mm thick and has a heat reflecting foil on one surface.
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