How to Fit a remote bonnet release

You need a Land Rover discovery 1 bonnet release cable ALR7062 @ £6.99, a 100mm length of 5/8" fuel hose, a 20mm worm drive hose clip, a wire rope grip clamp (5mm) a small piece of aluminium angle about 1" x1" x11/2" and a little patience.
If the cable in the boot goes, you are in trouble so I decided to fit a bonnet pull inside the car behind the fuse box flap.

I made a bracket by drilling the aluminiumsection.
The bracket is drilled 12mm high on one face and the 8mm hole low on the other so there is clearance for the bolt when the cable is fitted and fitted it to the left hand side of the steering column mounting after removing the fusebox panel by slackening the Posidriv screw on each side about a turn then pulling it towards me.
Here is the bonnet release bolted to the column mounting on the left hand side. Simply remove the 10mm headed bolt and pass it through the 8mm hole in the bracket. The speedo cable grommet was a little perished so ideal to push the cable through, routing it under the rearmost horn connector and the ABS loom
before parallelling it with the cable from the bootlid past the right hand headlight and onto the latch.
Remove the screws holding the slam panel to the body and the bumper and the two bolts holding the security cover which may be retained or discarded according to your choice. Clamp the two cables together as there is nothing to retain the new outer cable. To do this, take the fuel hose and slit it lengthwise before placing it over the two cables, fitting the hose clip over the middle of it and tightening it securely.
The free end of the cable is now pushed through the loop on the end of the original cable, pulled tight and doubled back before clamping it with the cable clamp. Reassemble with a minimum number of bolts while you test it as it will need to be stripped if anything isn't tight enough and expect that the handle will need a firm pull to release the bonnet. Once all is well, replace all the hardware.

Having been impressed with your inventiveness in the past I was wondering why you didn’t fit an electric bonnet popper?
Press a button pop the bonnet instead of opening the fuse box locker, root for the pull & then faf with those silly half turn clips to finish the job.

I have fitted one today to the rear bootlid but the bonnet latch takes a very strong tug to spring it open, far more than a locking solenoid could manage. The one for the bootlid was fitted inside the lock bracket and a real bugger to do because I wanted to engineer it properly so the spoke was threaded to accept a latch puller and a bracket made to guide the spoke. It is attached with a self tapper and spire nut because I wanted it to be serviceable as well as look factory fit so it took about three hours. I wanted the bonnet pull to be hidden or it would have been fitted on the panel forward of the door. There was also the issue of not wishing to drill any more holes than necessary. It will only be needed once as a new cable will be fitted if the old one breaks so is purely an emergency toggle.

That reminds me, I need to make an improved pair of latches for that panel. Watch this space...

Two points on this topic, firstly the bonnet pop; I used a rear wiper motor as my “servo”, one button press, one “wipe” & reset to normal with a Boden cable to the latch.
Secondly on the panel clips, I’ve used D ring Dzus fasteners.

Although it would work nicely, I think it is a rather heavy add on for the occasional use it would get. The Dzus fasteners are a good solution but I have a couple of nicely knurled stainless screws from one of Her late Majesty's tin fish wanting a good home,

If I had some stainless screws from a tin fish I think I’d want to use them on the car!
Comments on the possible over engineered nature of the bonnet pop are valid, however I no longer travel with a spare wheel, preferring to use a re-inflating kit, thus releasing bonnet as boot, which we find useful. When we are out & about this can be use several times a day & a cabin mounted discrete switch is handy.

I could be in the back roads of rural France if a tyre lets go, so the spare is definitely a non delete option!

Apart from the series Land Rovers all the other vehicles I have access to are equipped with re-inflation kits. I wouldn't think twice about taking the back routes around northern France in my Mazda or motor caravan.
I've not finished looking at the UK yet so you wouldn't see me across the channel for a while, none the less I respect your sentiment.

I have a home in a small village near Le Mans and if I lost a tyre late at night I would be stranded which is why I bought a spare and Jack for the proper car.

I think we’ve just about exhausted this one, what do you recon 1-1 draw?
Tah, Mike.

I think the danger is not a puncture, but running on a flat tyre and destroying it. No reinflation kit will fix that.

I have fitted a tyre pressure monitoring system to both my cars to avoid that expensive mistake. A TPMS is less than half the cost of a new tyre, so makes sense to me.