Starter motor removal

Can anyone shed some light on the process of removal and refitting of the starter motor (MGTF 135 2003), and in particular how the nuts are repositioned and held in position to be tightened.
I hope someone will confirm that the bottom bolt can be accessed by either removing the air cleaner casing and or through the rear wheel arch.
This is to be able to fit the flywheel locking tool for cam belt change.

Think if you look at the top of the page you will see the 'how to' section contains great information on removal of starter and so much more, just follow instructions. Yes, I removed air filter and accessed via passenger wheel arch.

Thank you for the reply I had seen that in the “how to section” . Unfortunately it doesn’t really offer much guidance as to how to reach the nuts other than suggest that it is rather difficult.
As you appreciate once you reach up to that area from underneath it is no longer possible to actually see what you are doing, and I am not convinced that I can actually move my hand in there to both hold and manipulate the nut in a way that it is in the right place and in a manner that will start the thread.
Yes, I can see that it is possible to get a spanner of some sort onto the nuts whether that be a ring spanner, open-end, socket, or ratchet has yet to be explored.
So what I hope someone might help with is something that indicates how they reached those nuts, and if a particular tool which one.
I have thought about trying to bond them in place before totally removing the bolts, but I suspect that will be impossible or end up with the bolt pushing the nut off when the bolt is entered after the motor is repositioned.

When I remove the starter, I access the bolts from the engine access area through the boot. I put a ring spanner on the nuts and use a ratchet with different extensions to reach the bolts.

When it comes to refitting the starter, I often use a bit of tape to stick the nuts to the ring spanner and then lower the spanner down in position.

I have never had to removed the air cleaner box or access from the wheel arch.

Thank you that is very encouraging.

I have had two cam belt changes done by different mechanics, and neither of them locked the flywheel, locked the cam wheels ,YES

I understand that belt changes can be sussesfully done without locking the flywheel, and I have even seen it without the cams being locked as well. Personally, I would learn towards reducing as much stress from the operation as possible and lock both flywheel and cams if I was working solo. Removal of parts and how you access bolts etc is of course personal preference and after the first time as always it becomes less daunting, and you find what suites your method of working best.

I appreciate the help that has been offered. I have been able to fit a socket onto the bottom nut using multiple 10" drive extensions feeding out to the offside rear wheel arch, even accounting for socket wind-up it was "rather" tight. How anyone gets a spanner on the bolt head is still to be established.
Clearly a socket can be fitted to the top bolt head although with the tools I have available it will mean getting the air box out. I could not get a ring spanner on that and apply torque due to dimensional constraints. It had been my hope that the associated nut could be released with a socket and large leverage (as required for the other but) but the water rail obstructs access. I just can't reach that nut from underneath with ring spanner, open-end, or socket. Equally from the top leaning over the boot restricts any spanner I have ~ and I have a few!
So whilst I could in time turn the bolt head I doubt I will be able to do that unless I can release the nut (Bolt ~ flanged head 16mm A/F, Flanged Nut 18mm A/F and 12mm bolt shank) . I can see that with a great deal of patience getting a start on the top bolt is likely to be possible using all manner of improvised devices but first I need a hefty spanner on it.
Any ideas please?

As I said previously, I had much the same problem and did remove the air box. I quite agree, it really depends on what tools you have and also if it might have been put on by a trained gorilla taking time off from wrenching the wheel nuts up. From memory, I used a ring spanner to release the top nut and through the wheel arch to release the other. I know at the time I though if this is just getting the starter off, god know what It's like to do the cam belt. I gave up trying to get at the nuts and bolts from under, as you say it seems tempting, but I wasted so much time.

If you start the clip at about 1.40 you will see you are not alone.
good luck