Heater and switch mod

Can anyone tell me if there is an accessible permanent live in the engine compartment please ? Ive looked at the wiring diagram but am none the wiser.

Its only to run a locking solenoid for the boot lock for which il be running an inline fuse, nothing with a particularly significant current draw.

Are the only options for a permanent live there to connect to the heavy feed wire to the starter or run a feed through the passenger compartment ?

Straight from car battery pos + terminal to pin 85 and 30 (linked together) on relay . pin 86 to button . pin 87 to solenoid. connect solenoid out terminal to other button terminal and then to ground. Job done
Use a crimp ring connector to pos battery terminal so you can screw it on tight.
Whatever you do, don’t buggerise it… lol
Not sure if your using your own kit, but if your building it yourself, don’t forget to use a momentary switch / button or the constant feed will fry the solenoid…
good luck.

There are lots of ways to skin this cat but I’d run a cable fat enough to take a few amps & fit a multi-way fuse box (four in my case) then you’ve got other options at a later date.

Tidy too

Im just using an aftermarket central locking motor, an in line fuse and a push button with suitably rated contacts.
No relay and no wiring to the front of the car.

I just need to find out if there is a suitable permanent live in the battery compartment other than picking one up from the main heavy cable to the starter which is a bit out of the way or from the alternator?

Find a plain brown wire it should be live

Notanumber wrote:

I just need to find out if there is a suitable permanent live in the battery compartment other than picking one up from the main heavy cable to the starter which is a bit out of the way or from the alternator?

I think you might be able to pick this up from the boot light. The wiring diagram shows that the switch is between the lamp and earth so one side of the lamp must be 12V +ve. The boot light works with the ignition off. Beware of overloading the circuit; I would use a suitable inline fuse.

If that is the case & Ill spend a blissful hour in the diagrams working my way through, you've saved a job & a half as I've to supply a permanent 12v to a circuit I've been playing with. Rooting (both spellings) a cable into the inner boot skin is never a happy diversion. Thanks Bruce..

That will do nicely for my application, thanks again.

That will work nicely. I will start on mine at the weekend using the permanent live from the boot light. The central locking type solenoid Im using has a very low current draw, ive tested it operates using an old 9 volt pp3 battery.

You're both very welcome. Maybe you could get at the relevant wire at the boot hinge and fix all of the broken wires while you are at it. I expect that is what I will end up doing.

My T shirt is old & faded. Even though it’s been through the wash so many times, you can still make out the script “ I’ve changed the boot wires on my MGf.”