Noisey unlocking

Just a note, since RookyMGF have MG F and not MG TF, he has Lucas alarm system and squarish 2 button fobs. He does not have Pektron SCU of later MG TF.
However sorting door lock/s should be done as soon as possible.

sorry, forgot to ask -do you have an MGTF or F
The f doesn't use a PLEKTRON SCU body controller which have the relay issues.
I am not aware of F's having relay issues

mike

Your comments may not be applicable in this case but it’s a timely warning to the next person along who may have a similar problem, they could be Pektron equipped.
Information like this adds to the general wealth of knowledge within the ‘bar & to pool that is one very good reason to contribute.
Every contributor could bring that nugget of information or encouragement that would profit another. One only has to think back a day or two & consider Notanumber & his query on wing removal, a swift response changed his outlook, resulting in another job well done.
Thanks Mike.
M

Sorry its a 2001 MGF I have.

Thanks for all the information.

That should simplify things a bit as it's pre Pektron.

It seems I had the issue 6yrs ago, bought the locking motor from Ebay for cheap combined order & postage from R Timms (mild prices)....
After or while having the door handle failure... (DIY mending huge screw solving it)...
MGTF / Lucas fobs...

Never could get out the door handle mechanism!
So, didn't even change the door locker. Might remember, it disappeared within a couple of months...
As spares, I have the door locker & a Trophy yellow handle... Make offer, if required!

Anyhow, howto is here: https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/92793-how-to-change-a-door-lock-mechanism

I’d keep hold of it if I were you, these things don’t go away, they hide in dark corners until you’ve forgotten about the problem & then when you’re least expecting it they hop out, blow you a great big raspberry & create all manner of problems.
M

continuing the theme here., MGF/TF doorlocks are in 2 varieties from memory..
MGF are different in that they have a single cable on the driver /passenger side-no reversing wiring (SCU relay)for the superlock
MGTF have 2 cables on the driver side and the passenger side-reverser wiring (SCU) relay for the superlock

Internally they are the same-(bold statement from me)
I had a whole load of info and dissection pictures on here but cant find them anymore.
The main failure on door locks is the microswitches which can be cleaned after lock dissection

I you have a TF and it has deadlocked on the passenger side -the fault more that likely will be the SCU superlock relay and not the lock mech (another bold statement from my experience)

regards

Mike

Im wondering then if the troublesome superlock could be disabled so the mechanism would then just work as a bog standard lock (with C/L)

that is exactly what I did after I got the passenger door off ,reversed the superlock with a 12volt supply from the cigarette lighter socket ( lock cables removed first) , then I replaced the super lock SCU relay which had gone faulty.
But i never wanted that scenario to happen again so cut the wires to the super lock part of the passenger door lock..

mike

I got locked in and thought I might have sat on the fob as pressing lock and unlock opened the drivers door,it happened again but key was in ignition, following advice I sprayed wd40 at the lock and inside the door, this seemed to encourage the machine gun type rattling referred to.
I have purchased a new mechanism for drivers door but also removed central locking fuse to avoid being locked in ,this means I can unlock drivers door with key but still need to press fob to disarm alarm.
Being without central locking on a car with only two doors and rarely with a passenger is fine for now.

I think i have the same issue, can you give more Info on which wires you used the 12v on to open the superlock?

Thanks