TF inlet manifold.

Hi everyone,  I've got a question in regard to removing the TF head:  do I need to remove the intake manifold before I can remove the head from the car?
                       Any help/advice will be greatly appreciated.   Regards  Glyn  (D4KGP)

You will need to split the inlet manifold to get the head out. That is, the plenum chamber and upper manifold needs to be unbolted from the lower section. You will probably need a new gasket to replace it.🫡

Are you concerned about the nuts being seized? I have to be honest I have never had to take the head of my engine, the only time I’ve had a K series engine gasket fail, I had Rough Luck do it due to illness.
I have recently changed the manifold for a 4-2-1 & new flexible pipe, so I was faced with that concern.
Plus gas, plus gas, plus gas, leave to work, GOOD socket, not too long a bar & ease to break stiction.
To take the head off with the pipe work attached will make the assembly heavier & unwieldy.
Catch the rear wing with the manifold & you’ve a paint job to do after the engine is back together.
M

Hi and thanks for your reply. I've already done that so do I now need to remove the actual manifold from the head or should I be ok to just remove the head with the remainder attached? I've done the HG on my F before but this seems to be a bit more difficult, or is it me getting older and slower?
Many thanks Glyn.

Hi, no not concerned about seized nuts and yes Plus gas far superior to WD but both have their merits.
Thanks for replying. Glyn.

It’s a challenge to give specific advice in certain areas.
Obviously when I’m on with a job I can consider the minutiae of the work in hand, whereas comments on here have to be broad brush strokes.
I would be taking the manifold off, after all I would guess the head gasket kit will come with a replacement.
It’ll be interesting to see what others think, I am one of many & not all of my thoughts chime with some of the more “dynamic”contributors & there in the word “dynamic” or lack of dynamism is my observation on getting old & slower.
M

Hi I've decided to go ahead and remove the inlet manifold but not today, waiting for my Son to bring his impact wrench to undo the crank bolt ready to set the timing. I may drain down coolant and oil, but it depends on how I feel after preparing veg etc ready for evening meal. Regards Glyn.

I’m never totally convinced by the liberal use of rattle guns & it’s simply an age thing. My son used them & his big one is a brute, it nearly ripped my bloody arm off.
It’s the lack of feedback that I find difficult to come to terms with, a spanner or socket talk back to you & with experience the situation can be interpreted.
Are you being told that the recalcitrant nut is coming loose or is the bolt shearing.
Cobber is the King of stuck & broken hardware, I wander what sage advice the great man would hand down?
We’ve not heard from him recently, I do hope he’s OK.
Come on Cobb’s give us a call.
M

From my reading of the situation think he's worried about getting free access to the manifold fasteners as it probably seems cramped and bloody awkward and for those I don't think a rattle gun would be much use. anyway.... no from my understanding the rattle gun is for the crankshaft pulley nut, which it should undo with much less buggerising about, than with a conventional socket set.
For inlet manifold nuts I suggest a 1/4" drive socket set with a variety of different length  wobble bar extensions (ball ended to let you undo the nut from awkward angles)
Inlet manifold nuts shouldn't be too tight to get undone  using the right tools.
Exhaust nuts may well be a bit more troublesome, especially if some knuncklehead didn't use anti size on them during assembly
For those of you not familiar with wobble bars the following pix might help explain:

 

 

It’s good to hear from you Cobber.
My comments on rattle guns was a general one & not specific to this job, other than the crank bolt.
M

Hi thanks for reading what I need the impact wrench for ie crank bolt, not manifold bolts/nuts. The exhaust nuts were quite easy to remove, as you say its the inlet manifold lower fasteners that are not easy to access.
Thanks Glyn.

David Aiketgate wrote:

You will need to split the inlet manifold to get the head out. That is, the plenum chamber and upper manifold needs to be unbolted from the lower section. You will probably need a new gasket to replace it.🫡

ADDENDUM
Once you split the manifold, the head comes out with the lower section still attached.
This is the method the travelling mechanics use. You are just creating needless work taking the entire manifold off.