Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

  • Cobber
  • Away
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
  • '97 MGF 1.8 MPI
  • Posts: 3164
  • Thanks: 1048

Replied by Cobber on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209973
Colour is definitely a personal thing, I myself immensely despise boring colours like brown, beige, grey (it's not silver it's grey if silver was that colour, no bastard would bother digging it up!) and white. Black used to be cool when it was bad arse, but they even paint the worlds most boring car the Toyota Camery black these days so its now sooooo uncool, and well pink is off limits for obvious reasons.
I do like an in your face colour on sports cars.

The average German marques Colour chart that consists of something they call gold but is really a metallic beige, 3 whites, 5 blacks and 227 shades of grey bores me witless!

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

Last Edit:3 weeks 4 days ago by Cobber
Last edit: 3 weeks 4 days ago by Cobber.
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by Airportable on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209974
I suspect it’s time for us to back off & “leave the Kid alone”.
There had been nothing but good advice, any bit of which would have been of value during our tentative proddings when our cars were just ideas, good or bad.
The majority of us are of an age where nurturing a prospective fellow is second nature, not wishing a new member any problems we encountered on the way.
However, those bits we overlooked are those bit that have engendered the skills we now have.
If when opening a jigsaw box you find all the bits glued in the right places, it fails completely in it prime purpose.
Unless you are prepared to throw untold & endless amounts of money at your new toy, owning a classic is buying into web sites like this, before, during & after rust,oil, dirt, blood, snot & tears.
God bless your car & all who will derive pleasure from what ever gender you decide to ascribe to it.
With you choice in contacting the MG mafia, means not having to jump in mid stream but to have folk steadying the boat at the bank whilst you get seated.
M
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by TA22GT on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209975
Colour is a personal thing..the OP should be glad he wasn't around in the British Leyland days...a beige Allergic anyone? No thanks.
Mine is silver otherwise known as galvanised steel because it looks like a galvanised water tank. It's been put on thick though so maybe that's the reason it is rust free. 
Does it bother me? No because it is the right car for me and I love it.
I have always been a lone wolf and I plow my own furrow so perhaps taking my opinions is a bit off cundum!
Good luck mate, you have a good open attitude towards these cars and ownership will just suck you in like water to a sponge..but that's a good thing.
by TA22GT
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Cobber
  • Away
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
  • '97 MGF 1.8 MPI
  • Posts: 3164
  • Thanks: 1048

Replied by Cobber on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209976
My car is Volcano Orange a colour that most folk would avoid like the plague, but it's so outrageous and in your face (a bit like me really) I love it!
It's what they call in the motor trade a hero colour, which is an out there colour used to get attention by the manufacturers in the brochures, advertising, showrooms and the press fleet. they know full well it won't be a popular choice and usually drop that colour option in a year or two once it's work has been done. As was the case with the MGF and Volcano Orange, they only offered it for a year or so and used it in the brochures, ads and on some press fleet cars.
You can have your preferences for any colour you like, that's entirely up to you......To each his own.
 

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

Last Edit:3 weeks 4 days ago by Cobber
Last edit: 3 weeks 4 days ago by Cobber.
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by D4KGP on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209977
I agree with what you've said about the sills on that car that KidCreation is looking at,
looks very much like they have been spayed before.
by D4KGP
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Cobber
  • Away
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
  • '97 MGF 1.8 MPI
  • Posts: 3164
  • Thanks: 1048

Replied by Cobber on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209979
you can use a fridge magnet, of the flexible type that real estate agents, home handyman services and emergency plumbers etc. hand our for advertising, to check for excessive filler. first you place it upon part of the car that is unlikely to be loaded with filler and feel the amount of effort to peel it off again, don't drag it across the paint work that can damage the paint. Then apply the magnet in the area you suspect might have filler in it, if it doesn't stick or is weak, then you may well have confirmation of your suspicions.
This isn't foolproof, there are proper instruments for non destructive determination of coating thickness but they are costly, and finding someone who both has one and knows how to use it properly maybe difficult.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

by Cobber
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by David Aiketgate on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209981
Just another factor to consider is the actual colour.

If it is Sunspot yellow, that is a flip colour(biomorphic). It flips from yellow to a more mango colour...
Flip paints are notoriously difficult to match. A friend had a sunspot yellow.TF, which got a small but noticeable scratch on tne rear quarter. After three attempts to blend the panel the car had to be completely resprayed!
Check the paint code. If it starts with an I it's a flip paint.  IAC is sunspot yellow, FAR is Trophy yellow, a much easier to match colour...

David
:shrug:

Last Edit:3 weeks 4 days ago by David Aiketgate
Last edit: 3 weeks 4 days ago by David Aiketgate.
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by TA22GT on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209982
Never knew that..thank you..I think silver is pretty cool now!
by TA22GT
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by digcot65 on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209983
Hello much better to remove rust  etc,with a wire wheel in an angle grinder this will not remove good metal, which a grinding wheel in an angle grinder will .Then treat it with a good rust preventor and the U/C ant paint as normal Len
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by KidCreation on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209984
I already love this community, waking up to find support, guidance and an array of interesting thoughts is definitely making this buying process infinitely better so thanks again to everyone.

On the subject of the moonshine one i posted last night (which kept me awake because i found it just before going to bed) some closer photos reveal that the paint has its own issues;
     
as you can see from the above the rear arches have been repainted and it doesn't look like they match very well at all (i'm guessing moonshine is a very very difficult colour to match (presumably moreso than David has said about Sunspot as at least there the dual shades are similar whereas moonshine colours are all very different) you can also see a repair to the lower front bumper and boot lid which are quite noticeable. Obviously we've discussed the Sunspot 160 having its own paint issues inside the arches but at least the bodywork paint seems solid and i'd hazard a guess that the inside arches will be easier to paint correct than mid panel areas. I may go and have a look though as it does seem a well cared for car and TA22GT is probably right, the 135 is only very slightly lesser than the 160 really, especially as i'm not planning on racing this or anything, (and besides my daily driver is far faster than either)

Cobber i hadn't heard that whole "hero colours" thing before but it makes good sense arguably the mark 2 focus ST did that with a similar orange to make an impact and perhaps the greatest examples of all time can be seen in Ferrari and Lambo back catalogues. The moonshine does of course stand out on a sunny day (you being in Oz will have more experience of this "sun" thing), but the Sunspot stands out every day in absence of such celestial support

TA22GT my dad had an array of terribly coloured cars with some of leylands being in the mix, when he finally bought something child me thought was "cool" a Golf GTI Mk2 he got it in brown, i would never of course put down any colour as its the colour that person loves on their car and its a very personal thing as you say. In the TF lineup i prefer the Ignition Blue and Sunspot Yellow, but i have to admit this Moonshine does tickle somewhat especially as i can see people thinking "oh its just silver" untill the sun hits it and it becomes a 90s cereal packet toy hologram. Though i do worry its paint issues above may be harder to resolve that those of the Sunspot.

David Aiketgate, thanks for that, i had suspected that the more complicated colours would be harder to treat, and you can see from the photos above that's definitely been an issue with the rear arches of this moonshine example which also requires work to the bumper and boot lid. Would i be right in thinking that while neither is "easy" to deal with the sunspot would be marginally easier because the shades within it are all yellows whereas the moonshine has silvers, greens and pinkypurple? Similarly would the fact that the sunspot (currently) only requires paintwork on the inner arches make it easier to hide than the moonshine which has the issues in the photos above?

D4KGP I'm struggling to notice it as much but my eyes are not great at the best of times, i can see it in the moonshine example above where the rear arches seem a totally different colour, i also know i should be realistic as i doubt there are many 20 year old cars that haven't had or need to have some paintwork. Its a very difficult game this , as i guess there probably arent any (or many) perfect examples and its more a case of what imperfections can you resolve or live with.

Airportable i only wish i could be as eloquent as you, and again you are correct, part of this whole process i suspect is nursing your car when it grazes a knee, my daily driver does not need such nursing and that's great but then if it was all i wanted from driving we would likely not be here. I do feel with the Sunspot there is more i can do to put my stamp on it, some design ideas we've discussed already, whereas with the Moonshine it's more about trying to restore it (i can't imagine moonshine coloured gaitors would be a thing, nor would they appeal)

Digcot65, so a wire wheel is essentially more gentle i take it? only attacking damaged metal we want rid of, while a grinder would of course keep going and potentially do more damage (especially due to my amateur status)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by TA22GT on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209985
Trying to give some balance here...they both need paintwork so they are equal in that respect...so go for the one that pulls on your heart strings.
If both sell whilst you are thinking about it  there will be others...and you are good company so you better by an MG of some variant!!
by TA22GT
The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Replied by David Aiketgate on topic Wheel Arch Rust Assessment (Prior to purchase)

Posted 3 weeks 4 days ago #209986

David Aiketgate, thanks for that, i had suspected that the more complicated colours would be harder to treat, and you can see from the photos above that's definitely been an issue with the rear arches of this moonshine example which also requires work to the bumper and boot lid. Would i be right in thinking that while neither is "easy" to deal with the sunspot would be marginally easier because the shades within it are all yellows whereas the moonshine has silvers, greens and pinkypurple? Similarly would the fact that the sunspot (currently) only requires paintwork on the inner arches make it easier to hide than the moonshine which has the issues in the photos above?



David Aiketgate replied:-
All paint codes beginning 'I' are difficult to match. You are right that the sunspot yellow, only needing inner arches done, would be easier than the moonshine's issues.
Incidentally, I also agree with the idea that the Sunspot is overpriced for its condition.




 

David
:shrug:

The following user(s) said Thank You: KidCreation

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.841 seconds