"Scruff" - first drive.

Cobber "More rattles than a billionaires baby!"  Good one!  I shall steal it for future use.  

Re the gearchange - I suspect it is just in need of lubrication in the cables  (some how?)  The bellcrank at the box is probably OK, lever same.   Long steel cables, unused for years??

I took a front wheel off to see how things were and - 
 

Any idea what its worth S/H?

Re the rattling - gently tap the body side just behind the grill infront of the R Wheel.  Rings like a empty biscuit tin.   That cannot help!

You can carefully remove the lateral vents and soundproof all those areas, as far as your arm reaches. And complete the job from the boot.
It makes a hell of a difference.

Red. Thanks for the reply.  Just tapping that panel makes it ring like a bell!  We have to differentiate between Sound Deadening and Damping.  Most of the TF seems to need - from my extremely limited experience - simply damping to eliminate the resonance.  Soft sound deadener may not be as effective as a damper. That make sense? 
How do I take the grill off without damaging it? I have a pair of spares and it looks easy enough. 

You mention access from boot.  Is the "carpet" boot liner easily removable to get access to the inner wing area?
Good start at least. It has to help.
Thanks      

I stuck Dynamat Extreme almost all over the car. In some places I put Dynaliner on top of it, 12 or 6 mms. It makes a huge difference on resonation and the “feel” of the TF
The lateral vents are easy to remove, but is just as easy breaking some clip. I followed a video I found in the internet, I think it was in French but it didn’t matter. Just get some trim removal set, as someone said here a couple of days ago, don’t do it with a screwdriver!

Boot trim is very easy to remove, specially with the aid of those special tools. You can’t reach far along the body from the boot, but it completes what you do from the lateral vent. And once you are there you can sound proof the whole boot, including the lid.

You can use any bitumen-based sheets for that, Brian here can give you more information.

If you ask about removing the grill… You have to remove the whole vent. Then you can remove the grill from it, for whatever reason, and stuck it back to the vent with silicone.

Stick it back, sorry

Vince..look back for a thread I did about "Sound deadening on the cheap".. a few pages back.
Cobber gave me the go ahead to write it up and put it in the How To section but I haven't got round to it yet.
You are correct that what these cars need is deadening not soundproofing. Deadening stops a sound from starting..soundproofing tries to stop that sound being heard audibly.
Pedro used Dynamat which is superb stuff but beyond my pocket!
When you look at the pics in my thread you will realise there is no deadening whatsoever in these cars..so anything we add helps.
I did my whole car in bitumen roof flashing and the difference is dramatic. It is like riding in a Rover now and although the suspension is still hard it does not send a zing through the rest of the car.
I can genuinely say it has transformed my car and it cost me £80. It is actually the best money I have spent on the car, it is easy to do and it works.

Your pic of the Bilsteins saying what are they worth s/h..well changing your suspension will not cure the tin can feel.
If you do sell them I will buy them. They are my next mod.
Do the "deadening" first then you won't want to sell.

I wholeheartedly agree with Brian. I was thinking about doing it to the TF (Dynamated the whole Defender, thank Goodness a SWB, some years ago and feels like a Merc G) when he wrote his thread and that set the starting shot 😊

Red110 wrote:

I stuck Dynamat Extreme almost all over the car. In some places I put Dynaliner on top of it, 12 or 6 mms. It makes a huge difference on resonation and the “feel” of the TF
The lateral vents are easy to remove, but is just as easy breaking some clip. I followed a video I found in the internet, I think it was in French but it didn’t matter. Just get some trim removal set, as someone said here a couple of days ago, don’t do it with a screwdriver!

Boot trim is very easy to remove, specially with the aid of those special tools. You can’t reach far along the body from the boot, but it completes what you do from the lateral vent. And once you are there you can sound proof the whole boot, including the lid.


Judiths Handyman was the one that rightly advised  about using the trim tools kit.

Credit for him 😊👌🏾
 

Red110 - Trim tools ordered - thanks for that.  I have a spare pair of housing/grills and they do look a bit fragile.

TA22GT - I bookmarked your thread in a sticky.  Re the Bilsteins  - I really prefer adjustable dampers with adjustable seats.  I.E. GAZ. 
So I very well may sell the Bilsteins but it wont be for a while!  What would be useful would be data concerning the wire diameter and number of effective coils for the different springs. 
Work out the spring rate from them.

I'm due to take the management out for a spin tomorrow so who knows what will happen after that??

Those Bilsteins look to be from VHS and have grooves in which you can relocate the spring seats from std. by lowering the circlip that supports the seat.
Yours looks to be in the one down from std which is a10mm drop...the same as a Trophy.

Hey, as a relatively new TF owner myself, In my case alot of knocks and bangs from the front end were cured by ensuring arms were properly greased - there's.a grease nipple on the front upper arms, and this gets overlooked by non specialist garages.

Pump grease gun until you see clean grease moving out of the sides of the upper arm pivots, you may need to clean off old grease first if you can't see the grease nipples.

Im doing this every 500 miles in mine atm to keep knocks and bangs away but my upper arms may be worn as a result of neglect, so gonna be replacing them over the winter.

Cheers