Impact wrench advice

Just tool shopping so would appreciate your advice of a choice between 2 impact wrenches.

Firstly, I have a powerful mains operated impact wrench that does up to 450nm and makes extremely light work of taking wheel nuts off, rusted exhaust parts and suspension parts and anything else that I have tried it on - eg working on my galvanised boat trailer. However, I wouldn't dare use it in the engine bay of any of my cars as it is heavy, bulky and too powerful. So I was after something smaller and cordless and would appreciate your opinions. I've narrowed it down to two:

1. Clarke CIR18LIC as won best buy in Car Mechanics. Takes 1/2 sockets, runs to 450nm at 18v but 3 speeds so I assume a degree of control. £137
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18v-brushless-2ah--impact-wre/

2. Makita TW100DZ. Takes 3/8 sockets, runs to 110nm with a 10v battery (not supplied but I have one) and has a variable trigger. £45
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-TW100DZ-Cordless-8-inch-Impact/dp/B00604LU9U/

(Lets assume price isn't an issue - it is and the Clarke one would be the top of my range, but I'm not basing my decision on price)

Now I think the Clarke would be the best all round tool, but I already have a mains one and from my experience, most of the sockets I use in the engine bay and for general maintenance like brake calipers etc are 3/8 sockets or even 1/4 sockets (eg engine cover on the MG). Also as it's less poweful, I'm likely to do less damage if I tighten something too much and if I need the power to undo something, I can get the bigger tool out.

So that's my thinking. Which would you go for if you already had a mains one? Go for the Clarke and then just consign the mains one to history, or go for the smaller Makita and keep the mains one?

thanks

Nick

I can't help directly but I have a Ryobi one+ impact wrench along with several other tools including drills and a grinder and several batteries.

I also have mains powered tools and wouldn't get rid of them, they are more powerful and the power source doesn't go flat.

talkingcars wrote: I can't help directly but I have a Ryobi one+ impact wrench along with several other tools including drills and a grinder and several batteries.

I also have mains powered tools and wouldn't get rid of them, they are more powerful and the power source doesn't go flat.

Thanks. But do you think the Makita 3/8 at 110nm would be too underpowered for general use or would it be ok do you reckon?

110Nm will do M12 at a push, though realistically M10 would be the limit.

Not many bolts on a TF bigger than M10, except suspension.

If you already have an mains impact gun, then I am sure the Makita will be very handy for general use on the car. You would still need the mains one for the big stuff though!

i use a cordless screwdriver for tedious jobs, like the engine cover, which is fine, but a small impact driver would be handy!

Dont forget, only use 6 sided sockets with the impact driver, whatever you get!

I have a variety of rattle guns both cordless and pneumatic ( up to 3/4" and 1" drive monstesr, these ones not used on the cars :nonod: )
I find their use a bit limiting in tighter areas found on our cars due to their bulky nature.
For these situations I have some pneumatic ratchets in differnt sizes


There are cordless versions also available

Hi there,
I think that 110 Nm is far too weak for removing say -F/TF top ball joints .
The 450 nm mains powered is too heavy to manhandle in confined spaces -I know cus I have a CLARKE one and it was very difficult to manoeuvre under the front wheel arch , but the 450 Nm did shift the afore mentioned top ball joint.

I have one of theses which good old Santa bought me.

HEAVY DUTY 24V 1/2" DRIVE CORDLESS IMPACT WRENCH RATCHET & 2 BATTERIES IN CASE Completed

this is a good mix between weight and torque(320NM ) and has good reviews plus 2 batteries in a box

regards

Mike

Don't know about the Makita 110Nm wrench but I have a Makita DTD152Z which is rated at 160Nm. It removes my wheel nuts easily and hasn't failed don anything I've tried it on so far. Doubtful it would do the hub nuts I guess but other things it copes fine and is a nice compact device

110 Nm is a bit weedy: recommended torque for most wheel nuts. About 80 ft lbs for us codgers.

But just to reiterate, I have a mains powered 450nm one for wheel nuts or suspension components. I just want a physically smaller, cordless one for general car use. So taking 13mm nuts out of brake calipers for example...

Maybe a bit old school here, but usually things like caliper nuts etc, once cracked with the spanner, are finger tight. If not, ratchet spanners or sockets suffice. If you're really effin bloody idle then crack 'em off with a spanner and spin 'em off with a battery drill. Hexagon input to half inch drive output adaptors are cheap.

Too much watching Edd on Wheeler Wan**rs. Oh look, a tool for every job. Just happened to have one. In the workshop. Orange gloves anyone?

Modern shtick, not really needed IMO. Maybe if you're dismantling a steam turbine, rail locomotive or a 1950 Scammell, but not an MG.

Old school. Do you really need a rattle gun for an F or TF? Maybe handy but hardly essential. May put off our new brothers and sisters from maintenance tasks? "Ooh I must have one of those...."

When I was refurbishing my front subframe some of the bolts were so tight that even with a stout spanner and a 8lb club hammer the only shifting was the subframe moving on the ground, times like that are designed for a rattle gun.

In your case the makita is the way to go, in my opinion. As you already have the battery and charger.

If you were coming at this with no battery, then the Clarke would be the obvious choice, again imho.

As to whether it s a justifiable outlay or not is your choice.

Although you have got me looking at compatible impact drivers for my Dewalt battery drill, damn you!