Notanumber

That sound a very worthwhile trip. That reasonable price does just say to us yet again that going to a recommended specialist who knows these cars inside out usually works out cheaper than taking a gamble with a generalist as well as it guaranteeing a proper outcome.

That's a lovely looking TF. Is that X power Grey ? Good luck with the sale of your F. Have you checked for the presence of a spark when you say you think the fault lies with the fuel pump ?

Welcome to the forum. Im sure its purely an oversight that your first post is to advertise your F so heres your chance to tell us about it and the TF you own. Compare and contrast ownership experiences etc

The 14 volts reading is encouraging. How long had you run the engine for before turning it off and checking the voltage ? I would usually expect a battery at rest to read 12.5 or a little higher if the car has recently been driven normally. 12 volts seems a bit too low, as though the battery hasn't had enough time to charge.

It may be the alternator is providing less charge than it should but enough to still allow the battery to slowly charge with the engine running. The sure fire way to prove this is to measure the voltage across the battery when the engine is running, it should be 13.5 volts or more. If the number starts with a 12 instead it points to a lossy alternator.

The original chrome wheel nut covers look good and are generally ok but its essential the correct size socket is always used otherwise they can easily become graunched up as they rotate in relation to the nut. If they look as though they have twice as many points as they should or appear rounded they are best binned and replaced as they will be a struggle to get a socket onto at the side of the road. Thankfully 2nd hand wheelnuts with intact chrome covers are still fairly easy to find.

That previous owner must be a bit of a careless plonker. It only takes a small amount of time and effort to remove stickers carefully with a hair drier.

Steam from a kettle may help with checking the effectiveness of the conductive paint repair.

It depends on the type of hood/ screen you have. The glass rear window in my new hood is permanently fixed, unlike my previous one which had a zip in rear plastic window.

The process to swap a zip type plastic window involves drilling out rivets along the bottom bow and replacing them when fitting the new window section. That process should be just the same for a glass zip in screen section. Its not difficult, you will just need a drill and some small rivets. Allow a couple of hours if that.

Hi, welcome to the forum. , Ive seen a car being 3d scanned in detail once as an analysis of a competitor's product but am not clear on whether scanned information exists for the TF. Lets hope someone on here can point you in the right direction.

What sort of changes are you thinking of making ?

If in doubt it's always worth a call or Email to Darren or Jill before ordering just to make doubly sure. They never mind