The brand I used was Sav-A-Thread > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair
It seemed to be the only one I could find online with evidence that it could be installed without taking the head off. I think if the head was taken off, it would be easy to line the insert up flush and lock it in with the punch tool. But doing it without, with an extension that far down into the engine, the only way you can guarantee it's really flush is by screwing it in with the spark plug.
I managed to get the insert back out with some gaffer wrapped round an extension in the end. The insert was good as new so got it back on the spark plug before screwing back in. Prior to this, I fashioned some long pvc clear flexi hose from a brake bleed kit onto a vacuum attachment to get in and clear out any remaining swarf.
I removed the lower rubber portion of the HT leads and cleaned them up before putting it all back together. I then installed the new downpipe onto new previously fitted backbox & cat. I used a thin layer of firegum on the flanges along with the gasket on the cat end with gasket only on the manifold end as it says in the how to (to prevent damage to o2 sensor).
Got the car flat and checked the oil level which was at minimum so topped up with half a litre I had from last oil change which brought it up to mid. On road test the car runs and sounds better than it ever has with an increase in power. I was so happy. It hasn't felt that good since I've had it. The EML light is still on but I imagine I just need the codes cleared to reset it. A local guy I've used before has a diag box. I'll report back following.
One thing I'm scratching my head about is the oil down both sides of the engine from the cam cover. When I had the gasket out there was zero damage present. Beyond that the only thing I could think of it being was a torque issue.
I plan on doing oil & filter this weekend. I'll clean up the engine when I do and check ongoing if the issue has been rectified.
Read More...
Okay so my helicoil kit came today with tap + inserts.
I first made sure the piston wasn't too high in the cylinder that the tap would hit it. I greased up the tap, clipped it into the long extension, got it into the spark plug thread and screwed the tapered guide in by hand. I then attached a ratchet and as cobbs guide suggests, slowly tapped 3 rotations forward and 2 back which was a success. I then screwed my insert onto the spark plug, screwed in and it the good news is that I have a nice new strong thread to work with.
I could have left the spark plug there as it would have been flush but I wanted to get the job done properly. The insert I'm using has outward teeth at the top of the insert, on the outside and above the thread which are designed to be lined up flush and punched with a tool provided with the kit to expand the teeth into the block. Preventing the insert from exiting the thread when you take the spark plugs out in future.
When I first took the spark plug out to inspect, the insert came out with it. So I thought I'd have to screw it in nice and tight for it to stay put. I took the spark plug out again and noticed that the insert was too high and not flush so I put the spark plug back in to screw down again. I've then somehow managed to screw the insert too far down into the thread, so the thread on the spark plug won't catch it.
On the bright side, at least it hasn't fallen into the cylinder because that would be a serious pain. At the moment, I need to figure out how I'm going to grip that insert and raise it up the thread without that happening.
I would like to punch the insert in like it's designed for. But I also can't think for how I'm going to get the insert flush and free in order to do that.
Any suggestions gents ?
Read More...
Thanks Cobber. Love to see it. Amazing work on the guide.
One question I have is a lot of people after tapping seem to be applying high temp sealant on the insert before screwing in which I didn't seem to see you suggest on the guide.
What's you're opinion on this given that you've done these on many an engine in the past ?
Read More...
Had to cut the old exhaust out today which was a pain but got it done with new backbox and cat fitted. Upon proper investigation of the downpipe I could see it had been welded very badly at least twice in the past and had holes in the welds so I've done away with that and have another ordered.
I started disassembly on the engine to replace the camshaft cover gasket and when I was removing the coil packs was quite shocked to see one of the spark plugs come out with it.
That would explain the pop and the lack of compression up that A-Road. I took the plug off the ht lead and tried to screw back in but it span with very light torque. So whoever has worked on it in the past has knackered the thread and it's eventually just unwound on what it had and blew out.
I'm looking at a heli coil to rectify the issue. Has anyone done one of these before on a K ? What did you use/how did it go/what was the outcome ?
From the research I've done this evening these seem to be the trick (Save-A-Thread) > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair
As a side note, the cam cover gasket that was already installed seemed perfectly fine. No Damage at all. Although there is evidence of oil leaking from that location so I put the new one on anyway. The new genuine MG Rover one I had seemed to have a porous material coating the metal unlike the one I removed which was just a standard sheet metal gasket.
Pretty much all 4 of the spark plugs were oily/sooty. No signs of wearing away or anything.
Thankyou to everybody for your help so far. Any advice as always appreciated 
Read More...
Okay gents so finally got out and under the car. This is as far as my diagnostics went today.
Checked the oil filler cap. Was clean as a whistle and wasn’t puffing with engine on. There was some exhaust coming from the tail pipe. Seemed normal.
I bought the digital thermometer gun and measured the cat with it as David suggested. Low and behold the inlet side temp was nearly double than that of the outlet side.
So a new cat and camshaft cover gasket and hopefully all should be well fingers crossed.
I tried to get at the cat bolts with some penetrant and a spanner but was very much unsuccessful in getting them to budge. I’ll lend an impact driver and see if that helps.
Read More...
Happy Sunday one and all,
I've had my 03 TF for about a year and a half now and have enjoyed around 15k miles in it (now 101k).
I've used how to's on the forum for general maintenance, and for anything I haven't had the tools or time for I've called on a local mechanic.
Most recent work was for a stud on the exhaust manifold that was gone and needed replaced.
The engine has always ticked. The mechanic said that it was hydraulic lifters and an additive can be used on next service to remedy.
The other week I was plodding up a dual carriageway in the slow lane at 50mph (due to engine still being cold) when I heard a pop and a pretty agressive knocking/chuffing behind me followed by a yellow eml light flashing at me from the dash.
I prayed it would get me off the a-road as there was a lot of traffic and nowhere to go. Luckily where I work was only a couple hundred yards from the incident.
I had it brought to a garage my company use up the road and they said there's an oil leak, plus the manifold & flexi need replacing. They told me that it's an engine out job and I should put it on facebook marketplace for £200 and be gone with it.
For whatever reason, I didn't entirey trust i what they said so I decided to get the engine cover off and investigate myself. What I found was the contents of the attached video.
On start I couldn't seem to see or feel any exhaust coming from the manifold. I had a look under the car and the flexi didn't appear damaged or freyed (photo also attached). But the loud chicking/chuffing sound seemed to be located within the engie rather than coming from any of the exhaust components. There was also oil all over the engine on both sides.
I'm still a fairly young lad at 31 not even 2 years into my motoring journey (got my license late). I do love working on cars but I don't have the experience, tools or money to diagnose and work on everything.
I'd love to keep this TF going for at least another 6 months in my possesion. In my naive assumption and optimism, i would hope that making that a reality would entail a new camshaft cover gasket and a coolant and oil flush followed by a full service.
What I'm really looking for is advice so that I can get to grips with whether I can do the work on it myself to keep it on the road at a relatively inexpensive cost or whether it's time to say goodbye.
Read More...