Made me recall the time I tried to undo the allen bolts round the gear stick gaiter DOH!
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I replaced them with speed clips glued inside the rim with contact glue, the originals can cause the binnacle to split in that area.
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I hate the 3 under the Tbar I usually end up taking the Tbar out, I've tried a ratchet ring spanner but it wont fit over the bolt head because the lip on the cover is too close to the bolt head, next time I'm there I will try raising the bolt head clear by using washers and see if that works.
I'm not sure the panel is structural I thought it's purpose was as a firewall between the engine and passenger compartment but even if this is true you would still need a good seal for it to work. The panel on my early TF clearly shows the holes for the engine bay bracing are an afterthought being drilled afterwards not punched during production, I presume MGR were using up old stock MGF panels. This made me think that if the MGF panel didn't need those 2 bolts to fulfil it's purpose why don't I enlarge the holes to fit over the bolt heads on the bracing so saving having to remove/replace 2 bolts every time.
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Mine failed in June on the emissions, the tester said put CAT cleaner in and hammer it immediately before the test, I was doing 5K/6K rpm in 2nd (no fast roads near me) and the oil temp was the hottest I've seen it, result it passed. The other good thing was even driving like that the temp gauge stayed in it's normal place just under halfway 
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Cleaned and polished it today and took it for a leisurely run in the sun and it pops an EML, it did the same thing last year but that was just 200yds after the pass, I suspect I don't need a mechanic but an exorcist. Perhaps it's what the Stock Market calls a dead CAT bounce!!
Airportable did you get your CAT off of Schrodinger as he specialises in CAT's that are both dead and alive at the same time
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I did mine over 2 years ago and I've been to sleep since so the details are fuzzy, as mentioned to do it as OE it's a dash out job so no go. I used metal reinforcing plates from the local hardware shop bent to fit the curvature of the binnacle and then fit to the dash panel underneath these were then 2 packed to the binnacle. To locate the plates to the dash panel I put the binnacle in place and marked the holes, drilled (carefully) the dash panel and used those screw in plasterboard/dry wall fixings (2 packed in again) the mounting screws then go into these.
I used the plates because the holes allow the 2 pack to squeeze thru and make a good bond with the binnacle but cleaning and keying is also important.
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I had a quick look on MGOC spares and their part number is MEK000020 and clearly states oil temp sender with confusing (to me) applications but might be worth a look. Tried to copy the listing sadly having just upgraded??? to windows 11 snip and sketch is hiding somewhere.
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So Friday she sailed thru all the mech/electrical bits and fell at the emissions fence blowing the clean sheets since I acquired her. I had done the obligatory Italian tune up and had put fuel system cleaner thru the system before the winter lay up but to no avail. The MOT guy said CAT cleaner, hammer it over the weekend and try again Tues, this I duly did and tried not to drop under 4.5/5K on the revs and only rarely got into 3rd and bingo a pass. At my age I thought my boy racer days were long gone but I must say it was exhilarating, not sure a magistrate would agree though!
My prob appears to be my after market CAT can't cut it after only 3 years (original stolen) so what to do? I was thinking about buying a new CAT for the next MOT hopefully get a pass then put the old one back until the next MOT, thoughts? Some might say this breaks the spirit of the law but me uselessly hammering around in circles this weekend has not exactly helped the environment.
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There is also a mounting in the middle of the bumper adjacent to the back lip, mine had been left off before but I replaced it when I put the bumper back on. It's also a good idea to have some padding (old duvet, pillows, cushions etc) to lay the bumper on to prevent scratching the paintwork.
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