I have a disclock on the steering wheel, on the drive I have a roof cover, so I leave them unlocked.
Not least as a good downpour sets the alarm off.
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Lovely.
3" dia seems to be a standard case size.
I don't know that model, but safe to say it is pre 2nd world war, probably 1920s, electric clocks started to appear in the 30's.
On ebay it would probably fetch £20-30.00 but it would be worth mounting on something and used in the mancave.
The acid test is to wind it fully and see how long it runs for, also to take a look at how much time it gains or loses over a period.
I cant see the back, next to the winder and dial adjuster there may be a governor with F and S stamped either side for fast and slow adjustment.
Given its age it will probably gain or lose 5-10 minutes over 24hrs.
We have forgotten over time (forgive me) that they were around that accurate when new anyway.
But well worth mounting on something.
As for your wife burning mahogany, sacrilege as a word simply isn't strong enough.
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Yes wooden plaques would work.
I machine out metal plaques and make mantle clocks from them, and wall hanging clocks.
Steam punk isnt a bad description.
The majority of advertised stream punk items are made from modern materials in China now, so I try to stick with old brass etc.
I would point out, it is getting increasingly difficult to get cheap working timepieces, they do pop up from time to time, but if you read the small print you will find most quoted as "untested," which basically covers the sellers backside and means you get a none working item that needs an expensive fix.
I have asked sellers to test the clock for me, wind it up and check it after 24 hours, but they don't, which of course means its a pup.
The other problem is people are convinced they have a valuable antique and are disappointed when they cant sell them, but having possibly paid a high price themselves will not sell at a perceived loss.
Even working items when supplied are running very fast or slow, so much so the governer cannot compensate.
It has been quite an education.
But, it keeps me occupied, in among all the other things that keep me occupied.
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To help keep me out of mischief I purloin early smiths car clocks and repurpose them.
In an effort to get more info I purchased a copy of Smiths 1910 spares catalogue.
I am particularly enamoured with the Smiths consumeter.
What a lovely word for a fuel gauge.
p.s. for anyone interested in car history its a wonderful publication.
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I wonder if a short length of copper pipe of the pre requisite bore and od would suffice ?
it would bottom out perhaps (as it is slid in) on the inner wall of the cross piece, or a transition fit, tapped in with a toffee hammer ?
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Yep, thats the beasties alright. As part of my working lot in life I used to search for compressed air leaks on customers premises, using ultrasonic hand held leak detectors.
The intention being to save money on compressor costs.
It worked and saved thousands p.a. for some.
But the one item I could just about guarantee would leak was the humble jubilee clip.
On the treatment of equipment on site by the heavy handed, that kept me in spares business.
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I have over the years supplied many different types of hoseclamps. The Jubilee in its day was revolutionary, but its very design means it never tightens in a concentric manner. There is always a little bit of tube that is not clamped sufficiently. Cobber is quite right to identify the "super clamp" as a better alternative.
In industrial applications where the clamps do not have to be removed regularly, eared clamps are used, the type with a double ear that is permanently crimped with a pair of wide jawed snips or pliers. They of course can only be removed with a junior hacksaw, so only ideal where access is not an issue and regular removal is not required.
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