On this subject, Gaydon are currently transferring all the paper mg rover drawings to digital format.
Of course, this could take a very long time, but contacting Gaydon may be in order regardless.

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judiths handyman replied to the topic 'Mission impossible part2' in the forum. 4 days ago

Well.
That's todays earworm sorted thankyou.

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judiths handyman replied to the topic 'Fuel tank removal' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Gin and French ? Blimey, happy days.
The coanda unit sucks of course, it can be used to remove petrol vapours that may remain, quite safely, unlike the gin and french which can in the wrong doses be very dangerous indeed.

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judiths handyman replied to the topic 'Fuel tank removal' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Ah, well do remember to leave one on at all times and in full view, just in case someone drops by.

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judiths handyman replied to the topic 'Fuel tank removal' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

Well cobber, that kind of stuff appeals here, I have a radio shack.
The spare room or man cave is filled with amateur radio gear, my good lady figures it keeps me out of trouble in retirement.
I dont see a scope though, not for any particular use, they just look impressive to visiting dignitaries.

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judiths handyman replied to the topic 'Fuel tank removal' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

This is just a thought, a theory.
In another life I supplied air movers of the type shown, you provide a compressed air supply at around 4 bar at the threaded port shown.
The locking ring allows adjustment of the unit on a large screw thread, the units are assembled in 2 halves, this way you adjust the suction..
It utilises the coanda effect, for every litre of air supplied it pulls 7 litres through its body.
It is essentially an air powered vacuum cleaner, no electrics required, except of course at the compressor.
They come in various diameters, small enough to fit a tube that will go down the fuel filler end of a fuel tank.
So, you can with a piece of flexi tube and a compressor clean out the tanks, safely hopefully.
The bigger the compressor the more suction you get, but an average garage compressor can do the job.
it is best to fit a tube at the exhaust end, otherwise you get petrol soaked crap all over the workshop.
 

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judiths handyman replied to the topic 'binding rear brakes on TF' in the forum. 2 weeks ago

I wonder if a silicone based spray lubricant may be better than WD40 ?

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Give these chaps a ring, they can call out and analyse.
https://www.roughluckracing.com/servicing/

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My dear old dad God bless him used to buy me the best birthday and Christmas gifts.
Variously, a hammer drill when black and decker still built in co Durham, a stainless steel spade, still in use and most importantly of all for my 21st, a 1/4 and 3/8 drive imperial and metric draper socket set that resides in the boot of the minor, regularly brandished.
Thanks Dad.

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I once had occasion to remove a clutch from a Rover V8 fitted to a kit car.
I could not reach the top bolt on the bellhousing for love nor money, so purchased a transfer drive.
For the uninitiated the socket wrench goes on one end and the socket on the other, the drive internally is a toothed belt.
They are still available on ebay.
 

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I did also clean the lamp glasses externally, I used very fine wet and dry paper, 1200 or some such and a proprietary 3M lens cleaning kit. It worked very well all in all.
I think I may refit the dust caps but punch a hole somewhere to allow airflow.

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I did not have the problem described until I fitted the rear rubber cover that was missing, I can only assume the rear cover is holding the moist air in, as removal of said cover cured the issue over a week or so.
Not the solution I know, but the headlamps are in a fairly well protected area anyway without need for the covers, in my opinion.
And yes, they are bloomin expensive.

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