New - looking to buy - bit worried…

Its always interesting to see people's different approaches and concerns, the combination of rust and radio codes is a new one.
Its best to devote some time reading through the How Tos here and then old threads on this and the other TF related forums to build up an in depth picture of TF ownership and the way that any problems have been overcome.

In my expereience they are slightly less prone to rust than say Fords of the same era. Check the state of the front and rear subframes, they can be replaced if necessary and indeed many have intentionally bought cheap cars that needed them doing and replaced them.  If the sills are rusty they can easily be sorted by welding a plate on though there are proper pressed steel sections available.

Ive not expereienced the battery running down unduly rapidly on either of the TFs Ive had. Ive often left the cars 2 or 3 weeks between starting without any issues. A short run once a week should be fine for anything that has a good condition battery and alterator.  Early TFs had a Lucas alarm and body control system, carried over from the late MGF which preceeded it. Later TFs from 2003 changed to a Pektron alarm and body systems.  the process of working with them after battery disconnection is different, both are described on the forum and neither is a particular headache.

Overall theyt are good cars to drive and fun to own. Now is a good time to buy one as they are only just starting to be recognised as a bargain classic. Because values have not risen yet this means that most people can afford to buy quite a decent F or TF without stretching their finances. In turn thuis makes any cars with a bit of a story; visible bodywork damage, in need of a subframe repair or head gasket etc as very much bargain basement. Even perfectly good ones that have failed their MOT on minor stuff such as worn suspension ball jhoints and rusted corroded wishbones can be picked up at bargain prices.

As you read more you will find the mobile mechanics who are reccomended and the parts suppliers we have had good expereinces of.

Do your research and get your toes in the water.

Hi and welcome to the forum 

As already mentioned I would recommend fitting a discarnect if the car is parked for lengthy periods.

For rust proofing there are some really good products on the market, the one that I currently use is Lanogaurd, it's easy to apply and seems to do a good job. 

 

Here is a reply to a question you did not ask.
I would buy one from of the 2 OCs and not one of the TF dealers. That is what I should have done. It will be cheaper and use difference that to bring the car up to the standard you want.
They are brilliant to own.

I’m sorry, but I don’t know what OC stands for. But I was thinking of buying a cheap one and dealing with any existing rust and then rustproofing/undersealing. I have seen that a specialist in Lincolnshire has lots of cars that are pricey, and I thought I’d take my chances shopping round. 

A few weeks ago a car came up in Bristol that was a great price and looked good, but I was only beginning looking and it sold before I mobilised. I’m going to watch AutoTrader for a few months until I feel I understand the market and then look at some at dealerships before buying one. 

The advice here is extremely helpful. I think the MGs have loads more character than MX-5s, and having borrowed one some years ago, and having owned British classics, I feel a connection. 

I will chill about both battery and rust and just immerse myself in learning. 

The MX5 is a good car, but ours defiantly are better!

A relative has an MX-5, one might call him an aficionado, he considered me unhinged when he found out I had an MG.
My car doesn’t need any attention from the main dealer, where as his is on first name terms with the people who purport to be mechanics.
This isn’t typical for the car, after all my daily driver is from the same stable & I’ve never had problems with the roof not fitting correctly. I’ve never got home in my Mazda & requiring dry pants.
I’ve only met him on the road once & I backed off as I felt like I was pushing him & on passing him created a fair bit of road between us.
I was considering a second coffee when he turned up. He did end up behind a tractor for a mile or so, but I was considering a second coffee.
M

Morning Im restoring an MGTF , which I`ve been on for over a year now  I am having cancer treatment and I decided due to that and my age It will be the last car I restore It had an 11 months MOT left on it but it needed tidying up .The brakes just passed so I`ve fitted new rear callipers , discs and pads and on the front I recond. the callipers new discs and pads .I`m replacing the rear screen which was cracked and am respraying the body I set up a " tent in my garage to do this .One of the reasons I bought the car ,was for something to do when I feel like it ,which has been ideal I `reckon to have it finished before the new year  Looking at the car last week I decided the front bumper wasnt the same shade as the rest of the car .I was having problems with my spray gun ,so I`m redoing this when the weather is dry and warmer , any day now I hope .One of the main problem why I`m going to sell it ,is last year I was driving north on the M6 with my wife and a huge lorry hit us and wrote the car off .Fortunately he stopped and said he can`t see anything on his left as he is so high up !!! and thought we had taken the slip road and left the M6 .Now a solicitor recently contacted me, to ask if I could confirm one or two points ,as they were taking the firm to court as they hadnt paid my insurers for the accident .Until they do the case is classed as "OPEN" and its my fault .So the quotes I`ve had for the MG is over £900 ,this will hopefully drop once settled .but Ive been told it may be a while Ive restored over 30 cars as a hobby and never kept one anyway  If youre still interested contact me Len     

Could I recommend you wait until our friend has finished his car, it will be an absolute dolly.
The last car Len finished was a red f & I was sorely tempted, had I realised that my last Land Rover would be rehoused by my lad, Len’s red f would be in the now vacated space.
Good things come to those who wait.
M

Apologies RT. OC = Owners Club. MG Owner's Club or MG Car Club.
They publish the cars for sale on their web-sites.
Good luck.

But, seeing Len's work on here, might be worth following up.

Morning I forgot to add ,the previous owner was very tall and I suppose when he bought the MG the seller had the hood down .When he started to use it he found the hood jammed part way down .Because of this when he started to use it he couldn`t lower the hood and he was unable to drive it comfortably .He obviously didn`t know there is a simple modification to cure this ,which I`ve done .The other thing is since I don`t want to spend a fortune taxing and insuring the car ,the MOT man will collect the MG from my house test it and do anything required and then return the car .He did this with my everyday Toyota.
By the way I am in constant touch with the previous owner as he wanted to see how the car is when I`ve finished it . Len

I am firmly in the don't buy it in a garage camp, I have two TF's, both were bought unseen from Ebay , the first cost £600 and the second £365. The first one had over £4000 spent on it at various garages including sill repairs at a classic car specialist, all since 2016. This one has been a disappointment, the repairs to the sills were just a patch welded to rusty metal, just a bodge. Since I have had it I have repaired them properly with Mike Saturs' repair panels and have spent about £2000 in total. I have fitted galvanised subframes, a new clutch, timing belt, low coolant alarm all new bushes, bearings and ball joints, because I did all the work myself that probably totalled about £750, I also fitted the Bilstein kit and  a big brake conversion. The big brake conversion actually cost me next to nothing, I sold the AP 4 pot callipers for £200 and replaced them with Mini R56 callipers and 294mm discs in the front and 276mm brake discs at the back. Getting rid of the AP callipers might seem like a down grade but they are not that much better than the standard brakes, the reason is that although those big discs and bright red callipers look powerful the brake pistons are tiny little things and exert less pressure on the pads. If you do the calculations you will find that they are just slightly more powerful than the standard setup.
The blue one is immaculate, no rust on the subframes, great engine, new stainless exhaust and a good interior. I am sure that at some point the sills might need doing but otherwise it is rust free, so if I shop around at a few body shops I could actually have both sills done front and rear and have porchased the car for little over a thousand pounds, for just £26 I actually bought a hard top for it from Ebay!
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Hi you're doing a great job by the sounds of it keep it up. I went through chemo and bladder removal it does drag you down and there were days when I couldn't do anything, but when I felt reasonable I would do a few jobs on my F. Now I'm doing HG and a few jobs on my TF VVC160, hoping to get it all done by the spring health and temperament allowing. Keep going and good luck with everything.
Regards Glyn.