Windscreen Wiper Motor.

An excuse first, my TF has been largely laid up almost a year whilst I got on with other things; although still running my F when I can.
However this is not a brand new topic, but just appreciating the "How to Guides" featured on The T-Bar.com; as I have just had to swap out my wiper motor and linkages on the TF as it failed due water ingress. The information within the guides have been a big help.
I have silicone greased the motor casing joint before and after assembly in an attempt to waterproof the motor itself and also greased up the linkages. The replacement motor is working fine and I just need to put the wiper arms back on; however before I replace the scuttle I would like to ask for advice regarding why the large elongated holes just under the windscreen in the scuttle are there
I am assuming it is to provide a flow of air to the snorkal; however this is obviously where water is getting into the bulkhead and has direct contact with the wiper motor unless my car had a cover plate over the motor removed or is this standard?
For comparison my F looks exactly the same.
Regards.     

It's standard.
Here is a pic of my TF when I replaced my wiper motor.
I just silicone sealed the wiper motor cover after I had repaired it.

 

I have considered drilling a hole at the bottom of the wiper motor case and adding a rubber drain valve, so if water did get in, it could run out.

I thought as much, and thank you for the photo confirmation.

Thankyou for your response, Yes the idea of a drainage hole was mentioned in the How to Guides; however when I removed the motor casing there was certainly a little water showing, but is this condensation on the inside of the metal casing or water ingress through the joint.
It was clear the complete wiper motor and linkage arms had been removed before explaining the scratches on the bulkhead tray and what looks like copper grease on the motor casing joint.
The commutator has wear very similar to the images in the How to Guides which would be the cause of failure in my opinion, and I will leave drilling a hole in the casing aside for a while as I still need convincing.
I am assuming the wiper motor is original as fitted to the car in 2004; therefore I would expect if the joint had failed that there would be more water inside the casing and signs of rust.
Anyway I,m probably over thinking this issue, but i want the replacement to last especially as decent parts are harder to find. The wipers are working now and the car is a step nearer the MOT.
Regards.  


  

I am of the opinion that, providing you have both tools & skill, rebuilding an original would serve better than a “new” unit.
Do not consider using any motor system other than the original (certainly not a Freelander) unless you understand the switching, it is done  in a different manner. 
My car is the best part of thirty years old & for the most part is still running on the original parts. It has over 12,5000 under its belt & starts on the button, every time.
I stripped out the original wiper system & made new rods using rose joints; the motor & gearbox we’re reworked, including removing the magnets (a loose one being the catalyst for the entire exercise), replacing using two pack epoxy. The exist drain hole (!) was cleared of rust, gearbox stripped, greased, set & painted. 
Refitting & setting was a jolly affair, taking longer than it should, however it hasn’t needed a revisit, plus it is all but noiseless. 
I live on the Pennine moors, an area not renown for extended drought conditions & so they get an amount of exercise. A failure has never been considered. 
M

Thanks for the response M,....I appreciate you mentioning not to use a Freelander motor as I am now aware of our cars having been made with several existing parts from the MG/ Rover parts bins. I wonder if any of the Z cars or earlier Rover cars have used the same motor?
The rose joints on my replacement linkages have been bolted together; which certainly look to be an improvement on the previous part as they are a simple ball and socket joint pressed together.
When I have the spare time and I will probably strip down the redundant wiper gearbox just out of curiosity to see how it works and what can be done with it.
I,m not sure the motor itself can be repaired though.
G.

A useful way to cross check on parallel parts is to reference part numbers on their appropriate RPC, or on a website, such as Rimmers.
Note the part number you want to check & then look a similar part on different car.
To the best of my knowledge a part used in one model, carries the same number if used on another, under the same corporate umbrella.
M

It would be interesting to see if any non Rover cars had the same wiper motor or sufficiently similar as to be adapted to work