Getting to fan resistor pack from front of car. MG TF 2004. Factor Aircon.

 
Hello, 
I have an MG TF 2004 with factory Aircon and speeds 1 and 2 are not working on the fan. I am trying to remove the airbox duct so I can get to the resistor pack. 

I read in another post, "Next, I had the Aircon fixed, cut out the front air box to access the blower motor resistors".

I have removed the cover and the snorkel, unscrewed the air box and removed the 10mm bolt. It is loose, but I can't see any way to get it out or out of the way without removing the air conditioning box, which I can't/won't ever do. 





There just doesn't seem to be any room to get the air box through and off. 

Should I just give up and put it all back together? 



 

Have you read this thread:  https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/54-how-tos/81111-heater-blower-resistor-replacement-on-an-ac-car

Yes I did thanks, but I can’t get the duct out either from within the cabin or out the snorkel mount. Sigh.

You can relocate the resistor pack to the evaporator as talkingcars suggested in the thread that Roverlike provided a link to.  Many years ago talkingcars provided pictures of where he relocated the resistor pack to on the evaporator, I know I have them saved somewhere.  If you were to relocate, it does mean that you do need to be able to unplug the wiring from the existing resistor pack, which I do believe is just possible with the evaporator in place.

mowog73 wrote:

You can relocate the resistor pack to the evaporator as talkingcars suggested in the thread that Roverlike provided a link to.  Many years ago talkingcars provided pictures of where he relocated the resistor pack to on the evaporator, I know I have them saved somewhere.  If you were to relocate, it does mean that you do need to be able to unplug the wiring from the existing resistor pack, which I do believe is just possible with the evaporator in place.

Maybe this thread:  https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/9-mgf-tf-pitstop/93286-mk2-a-c-in-a-mk1?limitstart=0

Yes, that's it. Thanks Damir!

Mark

The issue I am having is that I can't get the vent out of the air box or move it to the side.

I have removed all the screws and the bolts, and it's loose. Trying to pull it aside from the cabin side. Might need someone to help jiggle from the bonnet side and work it from the cabin. 

Once that is done, I really hope I can get to the resistor pack.

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I got it out. I had to pull on an angle from the cabin 45 degrees toward the boot and passenger door.
Now changings the resistors to new ceramic ones.

Well done getting it out.
I need to pass on the secret knowledge that most of us here know.
Whenever you attempt any major job on these cars you need to open your tool box, select a tool and preferably an heavy one, then you walk around the car four or five times talking to it.
You start off gently telling it what you are about to do and by the fith time you are pounding the tool in to the palm of your hand and using very threatening language if the car does not behave.
Some cars give in right away..some are stubborn for the hell of it and need a damn good thrashing.
Pick up the resistors...followed by a heavy tool.

I can't remember what the car was now, but years ago, I had heater fan resistors that had failed, and as with our cars it was in a bastard of a position, in this case I left the buggered resistors where they were, I disconnected the wires and cut a hole in a more accessible part of the heating system and mounted the new resistors there. I dunno why the manufacturer didn't think the put the damned thing in the same place!
I would recommend that the resistors are mounted in the airflow of the heater system and in an area that has a bit of clearance, as they can get bloody hot.
 

If the bearings on the motor are sticky, the motor has to draw more current and the resistor pack burns out. This I know from my wife's 14-year old A-class. Change the fan motor and no more resistor pack failures. On the other hand, a feather shorting the pack on the TF was the cause.......

It isn’t much of a job to swap out the old switch & resistor pack, to fit an electronic controller. You would never need to chose between one setting & the next, not that such a decision requires Mensa membership.
The more advantageous might arrange a higher voltage setting, switched in for a short period, for a more rapid demist.
M