Clutch is dead

Few years ago I had stripped the wiper motor and drilled a hole into the casing as recommended.
I'll report the results of my research.
Regards
Christof

Tested the plug yesterday, seems to be o.k.
Will have to study the electrical handbook for more accurate testing.
After that I opened the motor: Didn't drill a hole in, as I claimed. But doesn't look too bad, does it?
Today I'll clean it carefully, grease the drive shaft, drill the specified hole and reassamble it.
Pics to follow.


Regards
Christof

Okay, wiper motor is working.
BUT only at speed II and hold-to-run control. AND he doesn't stop in parking position, but immediately at any time you switch it off.
The electrical handbook says something about a parking position switch. Is that integral in the motor assembly?
Any ideas, electricians?
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Christof

Had an old wash/wiper switch in the basement, had replaced it years ago.
Inspected the switch, seemed to have no resistance in the hold-to-run control. So I decided to open it for inspection.
At the connection side there are four lugs:


Carefully levered the cap and found a lot of dark grease inside. Sprayed and wiped it clean and reassambled the lot.
But still no resistance as before.
Therefore I removed the switch of the car and did the same:


Just a quick test later, the same fault as described in the previous post.
Scratching my head...
Regards
Christof

c.steffan wrote: Okay, wiper motor is working.
BUT only at speed II and hold-to-run control. AND he doesn't stop in parking position, but immediately at any time you switch it off.
The electrical handbook says something about a parking position switch. Is that integral in the motor assembly?
Any ideas, electricians?
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Christof

YES

Should be a switch inside motor. As soon as the motor moves, switch is closed, which is parralel to the wiper stalk switch. When at parked position internal switch then opens, stopping the wiper (if stalk is also off) in the same position every time.

Intermittant wipe justs sends a short pulse, which starts the motor, and the internal switch allows one full sweep.

Symptoms you describe show the internal switch is not closing when the motor starts.

Two speed is done by using different windings on the motor. If you look at your pictures you will notice 4 brushes. Slow speed uses two, and hgh speed uses four.

So as you only have 1 speed, one set of brushes is not working.

Clean the whole thing up with WD40 and brake cleaner (finish with WD40).

If you still do not restore full function, then consider replacing the motor.

By the way: never, never more MGMANIA.
Had got the uprated clutch release arm last year, had bought many parts from them before (ss subframe mounts, compliance bushes, and so on). As I had described the uprated clutch release arm and the original bolt didn't get along with each other, both threads were damaged in the end.
I wrote them about this problem, no answer. Sent both damaged parts back to them on my own cost (in the middle of June), asked for a refund, no answer. Sent another message at the end of August, asked for the refund, have a guess: no answer.
In my opinion that's not fair.
In contrast to that handling I got an immediate refund for the borg & beck clutch which I also sent back.
Regards
Christof

Wiper is working again as it should!
The WD-40 and brake disc cleaner cured the problem.
Thank you all very much!
Regards
Christof

I think I have the same problem as Christof. Just bought an "uprated" clutch arm from mgmania but when I refitted the gearbox the clutch has gone to s***. I blead the clutch several times but couldn't get it right. I noticed the slave cylinder piston almost pops out of the slave cylinder when I depress the clutch see picture. I recon its about 25mm too far out. I believe the hole where the bolt for the clutch forks has been drilled at the wrong angle - I can't think of anything else it could be? It probably only needs to be 10 degrees out to get a 25mm difference at the push rod pin. Anybody else had this problem? Christof solved his problem by fitting a Rimmer part, I'm considering making a longer push rod but the arm gets quite close to the bell housing. Any thoughts? Thanks Martin