Clutch is dead
c.steffan wrote: Unfortunately the new battery (four weeks old) is flat, need another one.
Why a new battery. Just charg the old one up and see what happens first.
A lot of the new "electronic" chargers will not work into a flat battery (how dumb is that) so use a conventional (old skool) charger first, or jump the battery for a few mins, to get some voltage into it, then use the electronic charger to complete.
Bled the brakes today in the morning, the afternoon wanted to bleed and test the clutch.
The master cylinder went o.k., no air inside. The slave cylinder was (and is) the bigger problem: tried to bleed it with a manual vacuum kit, later the classic clutch pedal and bleed nipple system, always keeping the reservoir on level. After a while there was no more air, but no resistance to the pedal yet, only very little movement at the slave cylinder. After a while we screwed the pipe connection at the slave cylinder more tightly and bled again - it worked! Wanted to do this job 100% and bled once more (my german handbook says: press clutch pedal, hold firmly, open bleed nipple, push clutch arm by hand completely in release position, close nipple, depress pedal), but once again no pedal resistance. What the hell is the release position? As I'm unable to push the arm towards the flywheel, I pushed the slave cylinder's piston in before closing the nipple. Was this wrong?
Bled more than 500ml altogether without success.
Can not quite follow what you did, but a few tips from my efforts bleeding the clutch.
1 Use an easybleed if you have one. Very quick easy with one.
2 Bleed clutch as you would do the brakes manualy
Open bleed nipple, push peddle down, close nipple, release peddle. Takes a while, but will eventually work
3 When you have some movement at the slave cylinder
a Press peddle down and hold it there (block of wood or a brick)
b Relase the bleed nipple and press the slave cylinder piston back in as far as possible against the internal spring, pushing fluid and air out of the bleed nipple. (push the piston back with a screwdriver after pulling the dust seal off the slave cylinder)
c Tighten bleed nipple
d Release peddle THEN release the slave cylinder piston (important to do in that order) so it comes fully forward on its internal spring
e Repeat untill no more air comes out of slave cylinder.
I use easybleed, then re-bleed slave cylinder as above after a few days to get best results!
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- sworkscooper
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Nothing else I can add :nonod:
John
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- sworkscooper
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Regards
Christof
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Will fit it tomorrow and see...
Regards
Christof
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- sworkscooper
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instructions on bleeding . I really hope the new slave works and you start to enjoy the car .
John :broon:
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Lesson learned.
Mounted the exhaust and bumper the last days, got a new battery (replacement) yesterday. Will fit the battery today and try to start the engine (after seven months) for coolant bleeding. Fingers crossed.
Regards
Christof
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- sworkscooper
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John .
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Washed the dust from her, waxed her and hoovered lots of cobwebs from the inside.
Now she looks like a car again. Still on ramps partially, I'm on duty today in the afternoon. Maybe a test drive tomorrow.
No photos available, as our www isn't on duty since two weeks, walked to my brother for writing these messages.
Kind regards
Christof
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The part on the roof is NOT a spoiler modification, it's the wind deflector waiting to be fitted.
Regards
Christof
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- sworkscooper
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John
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