TF cam belt change questions

terreneuve wrote:

rosey wrote:

mowog73 wrote: I have never had luck with someone standing on the brake pedal. I ended up breaking down and buying the locking tool.

What happened, did the car just move?

The bigger issue is when torqueing up the pulley bolt after the job is done, if not torqued properly the bolt can back off, you don't want that to happen!

Would some threadlock help?

rosey wrote:

terreneuve wrote:

rosey wrote:

mowog73 wrote: I have never had luck with someone standing on the brake pedal. I ended up breaking down and buying the locking tool.

What happened, did the car just move?

The bigger issue is when torqueing up the pulley bolt after the job is done, if not torqued properly the bolt can back off, you don't want that to happen!

Would some threadlock help?

It doesn't say to use threadlock in the workshop manual but personally I can not see it being a problem just be careful which threadlock you use.

Is there a preferred type of threadlock? I have got some but need to check what type it is.
Went out to the garage tonight and managed to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt. I jammed a bit of angle iron in the flywheel ring gear and with a bit of piping over my longest breaker bar, hey presto!
The rubber bonding piece on the rear face of the pulley is showing some minor splitting, do I need to be concerned about this?

Many thanks
Jon

I used loktite thread lock....normally coloured blue the stronger ones for bearings and studs can be coloured red or yellow...the latter to powerful for this application...the rubber insert on the pulley is to reduce crank vibration...small cracks and swelling appear in time still ok has long has the rubber hasn't popped out too excessive..if in doubt get another...

The stuff I have is called Granville lock thread- coloured red. Sounds like I need to use it sparingly. I'm currently trying to undo the two engine mounting bolts which are stuck solid. Alternate heating and plus gas...

Hmm those 2 engine mounting bolts are turning out to be a pig. I've tried loads of plus gas and heat from a hot air stripper. One thought though is a bit air stripper hot enough or do it need to get an actual flame onto the casting/bolts?

Cheers

Hot air stripper is not hot enough.
A garage would use a gas torch.

At one time I knew of garages where you could just call in and the mechanics would of undone those bolts and just chanted buy us a pint next time you see me in the pub...days of when the petrol pumps were on the pavement and smoking old men and mother's would interrupt your filling of the tank has the pump operator.stretched the hose over the pavement and filled your tank to the brim....most garages today would probably say book it in

rosey wrote: Hmm those 2 engine mounting bolts are turning out to be a pig. I've tried loads of plus gas and heat from a hot air stripper. One thought though is a bit air stripper hot enough or do it need to get an actual flame onto the casting/bolts?

Cheers

I had this issue with mine when I had my cambelt last done. In the end I had to replace the arm that the bolts screw on to. The guys doing the cambelt change were fearful that the bolts would sheer off, they were that tight. Good job as the rubber engine mount was also knackered and they would not have spotted that if they had not replaced the arm. I undo and re-torque the bolts up again every year when I do a service on my car now.

Sundance

I think maybe a good heavy duty impact wrench may be the best way of undoing these. If a 3/4 drive impact gun dont move it, then its not going anywhere!

Sundance

I undid my 2 bolts ..yeah they were tight..so I opted to use my large breaker bar....the type used for bolting the Severn bridge together 3/4 drive beast about a mitre long...it showed those bolts .....nice easy pull on them not a yank.

Recently I've tried loads more Plus Gas and heating the bolts with a gas torch but to no avail. I've also broken 2 half inch universal drives in the process. So thought I would remove the whole engine mount. I've managed to crack the 4 x 13mm bolts that screw into the engine, but now need to swing back the tie bar to access the 2 bolts holding the rubber mounting to the aluminium bar. I understand that if remove the right hand bolt from the tie bar i should be able to swing it up to reveal the awkward bolt, is this right? It looks as if the metalwork around the engine bay will get in the way and only allow it to be raised by say 1".