TF cam belt change questions

I feel your pain.

The first time I tried to remove those bolts I was able to undo one but there other wouldn't budge. I broke a socket trying to undo it. I also tried to unbolt the mount from the engine block but none of the bolts would budge. I ended up cutting the head off the seized bolt and pounding the bottom of the mount from below until it move upwards enough to get a puller under the mount and pulled it off. I them removed the bolt by welding a nut to it and the heat of the welding heated the bolt enough to allow me to remove the bolt. It took me a month of free time to get the mount off and the bolt out.

The bolt was covered in white powder (aluminium oxide I believe). Yeah for dissimilar metals in a damp environment. I now use antiseize on every bolt going into an aluminium alloy part.

Ah yes I think I found your thread!
I'm doing this job very part time so has taken me weeks already. I'm hoping the actual belt change will turn out to be the easy bit.
Tonight I undid the nut on the outer tie bar bolt but the bolt refused to slide out, even with encouragement from a hammer.
Does anyone know if jacking the engine up now would help free this bolt?

Thanks

I don't think jacking up the engine will help. If I understand your description correctly, the bolt you are trying to remove is in a rubber bushing with a metal sleeve.

Yes that's the one. Having had another look this afternoon I bet that the bolt is corroded to the sleeve as it's solid. Dosed both ends with Plus Gas and will have another go at freeing it in the next couple of days.
If this fails is the only option removal of the whole buttress? If so can this be done without removing the trailing arm?

So the bolt seems to be well and truly corroded to the sleeve in the rubber mount, it just won't budge. I think I will have to remove the buttress.
If I disconnect the 4 x 13mm bolts holding the mount to the engine, is there room for the whole assembly to come out above, or below?

Thanks

The buttress will come out but you also need to unbolt the engine mount from the buttress.

Hi
Managed to spend more time on this today. I took off the trailing arm then undid the 4 buttress to subframe bolts. Then i undid the 4 x 13mm bolts holding the engine mount to engine. I noticed that the compliance bush had seen better days. I tried to wriggle this out but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance between the subframe and body. Is there a way of removing it?
As for the mounting it looks like the hydramount will need to come out first. As one of the bolts is solid and so is the right hand bolt through the link arm, preventing me from swinging it up, does anyone have any other ideas. I suppose I could saw through the link arm to try and get a socket on the second hydramount bolt.
Grateful for any ideas
Thanks

https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/21-david-aiketgate-s-guides/88966-compliance-washers-what-s-that-about-then?start=0#118233 compliance bush.

Thank you

It's surprising what a difference 2 days makes. On Saturday I just couldn't extract the r/h buttress from the subframe with the engine mounting still attached. Tonight with a bit of a twist it came straight out! Now I have unfettered access to change the cam belt, which was the original intention!
The problem is that in my haste to get the hydramount off at the weekend I cut the hoop from around the bolt that was seized. I stupidly cut into the hydramount flange.
What are peoples' opinions please about whether I can reuse it? Of course it's only now I know I didn't need to resort to such drastic measures :bat:

If it is that little nic just above the hole I probably would reuse it.

*disclaimer - I am not a trained mechanic so this is my personal opinion.

Second hand replacements are cheap enough. Mgfntfbitz will supply a good used one.