MG F Cooling

I havn`t flushed the radiator out since I bought the car.So before I use it ,that another job .The water looks a bit brown.Is there a particular way to flush and refill the radiator,since its so far from the engine Len

If you click on the "How to Guides" at the top of the page when on this Forum, then scroll down past all the introduction a "no liability" stuff, you will eventually reach the area shown below. What you need is circled in red. I have used this and seems excellent advice.

Great information again .Hopefully if I drain and refill the cooling system,then once bled the restoration,is basically finished .I realise this is just the end of the beginning as there is always something to find and do This is my 31st restoration,but as I said due to health reasons,I plan to keep this one and enjoy it Im still having problems after the car accident Len

Quick question,is it best to have the engine warm and should it be running. I realise if so you will have to be careful about the hot water and steam

Happy Easter to all .Is this the bleed screw ,on the engine block?it looks a though someone has modified it somehow .I know the door lacks can be a problem as they were on mine .Ive fitted a pair I bought off Ebay and now the car is fine .However these replacement ones must be over 20 years old Did someone say ,the alarm system can be disabled if so is it a reasonable thing to do ,knowing how temperamental these older MG s and other cars can be Len

Think that might be on the rear of gearbox, possible a breather. The bleed points can be found in the How-to guides at top of the pace with pictures as well. Failing that, a quick google for bleed points brings up a boat load of pictures

It is the gearbox breather, although I'm not at all sure how I know that with such certainty. Mind you if Len has worked his way through 31 restorations it's hardly surprising he's looking for a bleed screw on the block & not the plumbing, nor I guess would he be surprised to find a mod' as odd as that. After all I've found spark plugs bunging up assorted holes, I've also seen a spanner welded on a chassis to add some strength !
Len I think it would be interesting if you could let us know some of the cars you've worked on. Thanks, Mike..

digcot65 asked "Is this the bleed screw ,on the engine block?"

The bleed screw IN THE ENGINE BAY is actually on the flexible pipe, near the engine block. Not far from the breather in your picture, but the screw you need is circled in the picture below:

Thanks again I wa told the wrong place looking on U Tube Someone was asking about the cars Ive restored The one I liked the best was the Sherply As I said I had to do about 90% as the designer and seller of the kits died suddenly I used about 200 strips of 2" x 1/2" ash ,with a strip of mahogany between all fixed on a 3x2 wood frame I made.Ened made the screen out of brass section brazed together

Do I need to remove the tray under the hood to get to the bleed screw I cant see it here Len

Removing the access panel would be my recommendation as you don’t know how long it’ll take to expel all the air. The now sadly departed tf was a bugger to bleed, the f, by contrast, gives a couple of good burps & all’s fine.
Why this is is a mystery as the systems were identical even to the PRT I fitted, which I suspect is playing up.

My word Len that is a remarkable transformation. to recreate a Maharaja's exotic transport of delight, or a Colonial Administrator & his Memsaab phaeton off to the Durbar, to join the Mughal Nobility & you made it out of a LDV Sherpa.If I'd been told that a week ago I'd questioned the story tellers sanity ! I've driven a Sherpa & I've driven a Bentley & the two experiences were poles apart, no that implies that in some small & tenuous way the two might equate, apart from the number of wheels they have no connection.